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Cal 11-27-2006 06:48 PM

97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove the
lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without removing the
head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably some varnish on
the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace the rocker arm, push
rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter also...

thanks

cal



Matt Macchiarolo 11-27-2006 07:04 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
According to my 2000 FSM, the 2.5L 4cyl does not require removal of the
head, but you do need a "Hydraulic Valve Tappet Removal/Installation Tool
C-4129-A."


"Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:zPKah.58118$HD6.23817@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
> also...
>
> thanks
>
> cal
>
>




Matt Macchiarolo 11-27-2006 07:04 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
According to my 2000 FSM, the 2.5L 4cyl does not require removal of the
head, but you do need a "Hydraulic Valve Tappet Removal/Installation Tool
C-4129-A."


"Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:zPKah.58118$HD6.23817@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
> also...
>
> thanks
>
> cal
>
>




Matt Macchiarolo 11-27-2006 07:04 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
According to my 2000 FSM, the 2.5L 4cyl does not require removal of the
head, but you do need a "Hydraulic Valve Tappet Removal/Installation Tool
C-4129-A."


"Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:zPKah.58118$HD6.23817@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
> also...
>
> thanks
>
> cal
>
>




DougW 11-27-2006 07:09 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> According to my 2000 FSM, the 2.5L 4cyl does not require removal of
> the head, but you do need a "Hydraulic Valve Tappet
> Removal/Installation Tool C-4129-A."


Should be similar to this tool.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000BHQ1W8
Check your local AutoZone to see if they have one in the
loaner bin.

> "Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:zPKah.58118$HD6.23817@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
>> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to
>> remove the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out
>> without removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there
>> is probably some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm
>> noise, will replace the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like
>> to replace the lifter also...
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> cal





DougW 11-27-2006 07:09 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> According to my 2000 FSM, the 2.5L 4cyl does not require removal of
> the head, but you do need a "Hydraulic Valve Tappet
> Removal/Installation Tool C-4129-A."


Should be similar to this tool.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000BHQ1W8
Check your local AutoZone to see if they have one in the
loaner bin.

> "Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:zPKah.58118$HD6.23817@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
>> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to
>> remove the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out
>> without removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there
>> is probably some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm
>> noise, will replace the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like
>> to replace the lifter also...
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> cal





DougW 11-27-2006 07:09 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> According to my 2000 FSM, the 2.5L 4cyl does not require removal of
> the head, but you do need a "Hydraulic Valve Tappet
> Removal/Installation Tool C-4129-A."


Should be similar to this tool.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000BHQ1W8
Check your local AutoZone to see if they have one in the
loaner bin.

> "Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:zPKah.58118$HD6.23817@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
>> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to
>> remove the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out
>> without removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there
>> is probably some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm
>> noise, will replace the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like
>> to replace the lifter also...
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> cal





Simon Juncal 11-27-2006 07:44 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Cal wrote:
> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove the
> lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without removing the
> head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably some varnish on
> the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace the rocker arm, push
> rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter also...
>
> thanks
>
> cal
>
>



Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).

That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be
replaced at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique
wear patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter face).

Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces
are WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than
the other.

Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the
price of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the
stock Cam shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Simon Juncal 11-27-2006 07:44 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Cal wrote:
> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove the
> lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without removing the
> head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably some varnish on
> the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace the rocker arm, push
> rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter also...
>
> thanks
>
> cal
>
>



Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).

That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be
replaced at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique
wear patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter face).

Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces
are WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than
the other.

Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the
price of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the
stock Cam shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Simon Juncal 11-27-2006 07:44 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Cal wrote:
> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove the
> lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without removing the
> head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably some varnish on
> the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace the rocker arm, push
> rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter also...
>
> thanks
>
> cal
>
>



Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).

That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be
replaced at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique
wear patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter face).

Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces
are WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than
the other.

Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the
price of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the
stock Cam shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Cal 11-30-2006 01:20 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
post?

cal

"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:_86dnXg0K-r2G_bYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Cal wrote:
>> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
>> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
>> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
>> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
>> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
>> also...
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> cal
>>
>>

>
>
> Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
> none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).
>
> That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be replaced
> at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique wear
> patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
> forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
> while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter face).
>
> Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
> lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
> slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces are
> WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
> dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
> tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
> wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
> on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than the
> other.
>
> Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the price
> of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the stock Cam
> shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein




Cal 11-30-2006 01:20 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
post?

cal

"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:_86dnXg0K-r2G_bYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Cal wrote:
>> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
>> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
>> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
>> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
>> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
>> also...
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> cal
>>
>>

>
>
> Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
> none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).
>
> That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be replaced
> at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique wear
> patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
> forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
> while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter face).
>
> Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
> lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
> slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces are
> WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
> dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
> tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
> wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
> on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than the
> other.
>
> Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the price
> of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the stock Cam
> shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein




Cal 11-30-2006 01:20 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
post?

cal

"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:_86dnXg0K-r2G_bYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Cal wrote:
>> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
>> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
>> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
>> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
>> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
>> also...
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> cal
>>
>>

>
>
> Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
> none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).
>
> That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be replaced
> at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique wear
> patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
> forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
> while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter face).
>
> Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
> lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
> slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces are
> WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
> dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
> tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
> wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
> on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than the
> other.
>
> Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the price
> of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the stock Cam
> shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein




Earle Horton 11-30-2006 02:34 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
I have had rocker noise or tappet noise in mine since I bought it, twelve
years ago. Simon is like one of those old geezers in the balcony of "The
Muppet Show", but in this case he knows what he is talking about. I
wouldn't replace the lifters unless the noise problem got EXTREME, and in
that case I would replace the cam too. That lifter removal tool is probably
in the KD Tools catalog.

Earle

"Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:rhFbh.40699$nG1.35627@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
> Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
> post?
>
> cal
>
> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote

in
> message news:_86dnXg0K-r2G_bYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> > Cal wrote:
> >> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
> >> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
> >> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
> >> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
> >> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
> >> also...
> >>
> >> thanks
> >>
> >> cal
> >>
> >>

> >
> >
> > Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
> > none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).
> >
> > That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be

replaced
> > at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique wear
> > patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
> > forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
> > while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter

face).
> >
> > Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
> > lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
> > slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces

are
> > WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
> > dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
> > tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
> > wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
> > on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than

the
> > other.
> >
> > Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the

price
> > of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the stock Cam
> > shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.
> >
> > --
> > Simon
> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

>
>




Earle Horton 11-30-2006 02:34 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
I have had rocker noise or tappet noise in mine since I bought it, twelve
years ago. Simon is like one of those old geezers in the balcony of "The
Muppet Show", but in this case he knows what he is talking about. I
wouldn't replace the lifters unless the noise problem got EXTREME, and in
that case I would replace the cam too. That lifter removal tool is probably
in the KD Tools catalog.

Earle

"Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:rhFbh.40699$nG1.35627@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
> Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
> post?
>
> cal
>
> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote

in
> message news:_86dnXg0K-r2G_bYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> > Cal wrote:
> >> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
> >> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
> >> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
> >> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
> >> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
> >> also...
> >>
> >> thanks
> >>
> >> cal
> >>
> >>

> >
> >
> > Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
> > none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).
> >
> > That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be

replaced
> > at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique wear
> > patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
> > forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
> > while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter

face).
> >
> > Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
> > lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
> > slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces

are
> > WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
> > dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
> > tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
> > wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
> > on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than

the
> > other.
> >
> > Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the

price
> > of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the stock Cam
> > shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.
> >
> > --
> > Simon
> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

>
>




Earle Horton 11-30-2006 02:34 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
I have had rocker noise or tappet noise in mine since I bought it, twelve
years ago. Simon is like one of those old geezers in the balcony of "The
Muppet Show", but in this case he knows what he is talking about. I
wouldn't replace the lifters unless the noise problem got EXTREME, and in
that case I would replace the cam too. That lifter removal tool is probably
in the KD Tools catalog.

Earle

"Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:rhFbh.40699$nG1.35627@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
> Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
> post?
>
> cal
>
> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote

in
> message news:_86dnXg0K-r2G_bYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> > Cal wrote:
> >> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
> >> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
> >> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
> >> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
> >> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
> >> also...
> >>
> >> thanks
> >>
> >> cal
> >>
> >>

> >
> >
> > Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
> > none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).
> >
> > That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be

replaced
> > at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique wear
> > patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
> > forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
> > while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter

face).
> >
> > Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
> > lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
> > slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces

are
> > WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
> > dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
> > tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
> > wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
> > on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than

the
> > other.
> >
> > Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the

price
> > of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the stock Cam
> > shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.
> >
> > --
> > Simon
> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

>
>




Mike Romain 11-30-2006 08:53 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
My lifters were recently giving a lot of noise at startup and I figured
a clean needed or maybe old age....

I then changed the oil and tossed the Fram oil filter in the garbage and
went with a different brand and no more noise...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Earle Horton wrote:
>
> I have had rocker noise or tappet noise in mine since I bought it, twelve
> years ago. Simon is like one of those old geezers in the balcony of "The
> Muppet Show", but in this case he knows what he is talking about. I
> wouldn't replace the lifters unless the noise problem got EXTREME, and in
> that case I would replace the cam too. That lifter removal tool is probably
> in the KD Tools catalog.
>
> Earle
>
> "Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:rhFbh.40699$nG1.35627@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
> > Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
> > post?
> >
> > cal
> >
> > "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote

> in
> > message news:_86dnXg0K-r2G_bYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> > > Cal wrote:
> > >> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
> > >> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
> > >> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
> > >> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
> > >> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
> > >> also...
> > >>
> > >> thanks
> > >>
> > >> cal
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
> > > none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).
> > >
> > > That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be

> replaced
> > > at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique wear
> > > patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
> > > forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
> > > while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter

> face).
> > >
> > > Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
> > > lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
> > > slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces

> are
> > > WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
> > > dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
> > > tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
> > > wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
> > > on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than

> the
> > > other.
> > >
> > > Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the

> price
> > > of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the stock Cam
> > > shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Simon
> > > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

> >
> >


Mike Romain 11-30-2006 08:53 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
My lifters were recently giving a lot of noise at startup and I figured
a clean needed or maybe old age....

I then changed the oil and tossed the Fram oil filter in the garbage and
went with a different brand and no more noise...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Earle Horton wrote:
>
> I have had rocker noise or tappet noise in mine since I bought it, twelve
> years ago. Simon is like one of those old geezers in the balcony of "The
> Muppet Show", but in this case he knows what he is talking about. I
> wouldn't replace the lifters unless the noise problem got EXTREME, and in
> that case I would replace the cam too. That lifter removal tool is probably
> in the KD Tools catalog.
>
> Earle
>
> "Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:rhFbh.40699$nG1.35627@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
> > Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
> > post?
> >
> > cal
> >
> > "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote

> in
> > message news:_86dnXg0K-r2G_bYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> > > Cal wrote:
> > >> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
> > >> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
> > >> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
> > >> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
> > >> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
> > >> also...
> > >>
> > >> thanks
> > >>
> > >> cal
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
> > > none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).
> > >
> > > That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be

> replaced
> > > at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique wear
> > > patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
> > > forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
> > > while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter

> face).
> > >
> > > Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
> > > lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
> > > slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces

> are
> > > WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
> > > dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
> > > tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
> > > wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
> > > on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than

> the
> > > other.
> > >
> > > Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the

> price
> > > of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the stock Cam
> > > shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Simon
> > > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

> >
> >


Mike Romain 11-30-2006 08:53 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
My lifters were recently giving a lot of noise at startup and I figured
a clean needed or maybe old age....

I then changed the oil and tossed the Fram oil filter in the garbage and
went with a different brand and no more noise...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Earle Horton wrote:
>
> I have had rocker noise or tappet noise in mine since I bought it, twelve
> years ago. Simon is like one of those old geezers in the balcony of "The
> Muppet Show", but in this case he knows what he is talking about. I
> wouldn't replace the lifters unless the noise problem got EXTREME, and in
> that case I would replace the cam too. That lifter removal tool is probably
> in the KD Tools catalog.
>
> Earle
>
> "Cal" <codom1*IHATESPAM*@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:rhFbh.40699$nG1.35627@tornado.southeast.rr.co m...
> > Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
> > post?
> >
> > cal
> >
> > "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote

> in
> > message news:_86dnXg0K-r2G_bYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> > > Cal wrote:
> > >> 2.5l, '97 wrangler, valve lifters....do I need a special tool to remove
> > >> the lifters? Where do I get it? Will the lifters come out without
> > >> removing the head? I know I could use a magnet, but there is probably
> > >> some varnish on the lifter. I have some rocker arm noise, will replace
> > >> the rocker arm, push rod, etc., and would like to replace the lifter
> > >> also...
> > >>
> > >> thanks
> > >>
> > >> cal
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > Teloscoping magnet is the tool, good luck finding a lifter removal tool
> > > none of my area parts stores have them (Advance, Autozone etc.).
> > >
> > > That said don't change your lifters, Cam's and lifters should be

> replaced
> > > at the same time, they wear into each other developing unique wear
> > > patterns and unique patterns of work hardening (which is a lot like
> > > forging metal) on both surfaces. A new lifter (or vice versa a new cam
> > > while reusing old lifters) can quite possibly eat a lobe (or lifter

> face).
> > >
> > > Imagine it this way... that old lifter has been sitting on the same Cam
> > > lobe for thousands of miles, the shoulders and face of the Cam lobe are
> > > slightly rounded and the face of the lifter is dished, these surfaces

> are
> > > WAY HARDER than when freshly milled... Your new softer lifter is not
> > > dished... that means the Cam lobe is contacting the new lifter only on a
> > > tiny POINT, Cam lobe AND lifter face is going have extremely accelerated
> > > wear. Because the same lifter preload and spring pressure are being born
> > > on a MUCH smaller surface area, one side of which is MUCH harder than

> the
> > > other.
> > >
> > > Don't ask me how I learned this... Lets just say that it cost me the

> price
> > > of a nice set of Crane anti-pump up lifters (64 bucks), as the stock Cam
> > > shaft had 140k and was going to be replaced anyway.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Simon
> > > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

> >
> >


Simon Juncal 11-30-2006 10:40 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Cal wrote:
> Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
> post?


Of course, it's always possible, go ahead and report back here if you
suceed.

Or if need be report back and we'll help you pull your radiator, core
support, grill, alternator, harmonic balancer, timing cover, chain, gear
set, intake, exhaust manifold, valve cover, rockers, head, lifters, and
finally Cam if things didn't work out that great.

All joking aside, all of the lifter and cam manufacturers will tell you
the exact same thing, of course they want to sell you a new cam to go
with your new lifters (or vice versa). So don't let them stop you :)

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Simon Juncal 11-30-2006 10:40 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Cal wrote:
> Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
> post?


Of course, it's always possible, go ahead and report back here if you
suceed.

Or if need be report back and we'll help you pull your radiator, core
support, grill, alternator, harmonic balancer, timing cover, chain, gear
set, intake, exhaust manifold, valve cover, rockers, head, lifters, and
finally Cam if things didn't work out that great.

All joking aside, all of the lifter and cam manufacturers will tell you
the exact same thing, of course they want to sell you a new cam to go
with your new lifters (or vice versa). So don't let them stop you :)

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Simon Juncal 11-30-2006 10:40 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Cal wrote:
> Has anyone replaced lifters without the possible problems listed in this
> post?


Of course, it's always possible, go ahead and report back here if you
suceed.

Or if need be report back and we'll help you pull your radiator, core
support, grill, alternator, harmonic balancer, timing cover, chain, gear
set, intake, exhaust manifold, valve cover, rockers, head, lifters, and
finally Cam if things didn't work out that great.

All joking aside, all of the lifter and cam manufacturers will tell you
the exact same thing, of course they want to sell you a new cam to go
with your new lifters (or vice versa). So don't let them stop you :)

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Outatime 12-01-2006 08:28 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Mike Romain wrote:

> My lifters were recently giving a lot of noise at startup and I figured
> a clean needed or maybe old age....
>
> I then changed the oil and tossed the Fram oil filter in the garbage and
> went with a different brand and no more noise...


I had to laugh just now. This brings back a memory that I'd long since
forgotten.

I once owned a '68 Toyota Corona wagon. It actually ran well, but I
remember it had terrible brakes. Anyway, it began making terrible
noises at startup, so I took it in for repair. The dealer diagnosed it
as a bad timing chain and gear, and $300 to fix. I instead traded it in
for a new '78 Corolla, an overpriced piece of junk that I should have
never bought.

Later, I chatted with a dealership mechanic who was fixing yet another
problem on the junky Corolla. I mentioned a Corona wagon, and he
laughed, and said, "I remember that thing; clean wagon, but some idiot
put a Fram filter on it that caused valve noise; we changed it out and
the noise went away, and we sold it for double what we paid him for it."

You can only imagine how stupid I felt.

Outatime 12-01-2006 08:28 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Mike Romain wrote:

> My lifters were recently giving a lot of noise at startup and I figured
> a clean needed or maybe old age....
>
> I then changed the oil and tossed the Fram oil filter in the garbage and
> went with a different brand and no more noise...


I had to laugh just now. This brings back a memory that I'd long since
forgotten.

I once owned a '68 Toyota Corona wagon. It actually ran well, but I
remember it had terrible brakes. Anyway, it began making terrible
noises at startup, so I took it in for repair. The dealer diagnosed it
as a bad timing chain and gear, and $300 to fix. I instead traded it in
for a new '78 Corolla, an overpriced piece of junk that I should have
never bought.

Later, I chatted with a dealership mechanic who was fixing yet another
problem on the junky Corolla. I mentioned a Corona wagon, and he
laughed, and said, "I remember that thing; clean wagon, but some idiot
put a Fram filter on it that caused valve noise; we changed it out and
the noise went away, and we sold it for double what we paid him for it."

You can only imagine how stupid I felt.

Outatime 12-01-2006 08:28 PM

Re: 97 wrangler valve lifters...
 
Mike Romain wrote:

> My lifters were recently giving a lot of noise at startup and I figured
> a clean needed or maybe old age....
>
> I then changed the oil and tossed the Fram oil filter in the garbage and
> went with a different brand and no more noise...


I had to laugh just now. This brings back a memory that I'd long since
forgotten.

I once owned a '68 Toyota Corona wagon. It actually ran well, but I
remember it had terrible brakes. Anyway, it began making terrible
noises at startup, so I took it in for repair. The dealer diagnosed it
as a bad timing chain and gear, and $300 to fix. I instead traded it in
for a new '78 Corolla, an overpriced piece of junk that I should have
never bought.

Later, I chatted with a dealership mechanic who was fixing yet another
problem on the junky Corolla. I mentioned a Corona wagon, and he
laughed, and said, "I remember that thing; clean wagon, but some idiot
put a Fram filter on it that caused valve noise; we changed it out and
the noise went away, and we sold it for double what we paid him for it."

You can only imagine how stupid I felt.


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