'85 CJ7 repair problem
 

Hey,

I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
wire up.

Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
amps enough here??

This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
:( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.

Thanks!
Chris

Re: '85 CJ7 repair problem
 

Alternator on a low battery will push 100 amps into the battery.

Chris Roat wrote:
> Hey,
>
> I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
> dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
> heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
> solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
> found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
> wire up.
>
> Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
> removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
> manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
> tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
> links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
> amps enough here??
>
> This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
> while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
> Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
> As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
> :( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
> here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
> my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
> the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.
>
> Thanks!
> Chris
>

Re: '85 CJ7 repair problem
 

Alternator on a low battery will push 100 amps into the battery.

Chris Roat wrote:
> Hey,
>
> I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
> dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
> heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
> solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
> found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
> wire up.
>
> Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
> removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
> manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
> tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
> links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
> amps enough here??
>
> This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
> while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
> Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
> As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
> :( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
> here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
> my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
> the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.
>
> Thanks!
> Chris
>

Re: '85 CJ7 repair problem
 

Alternator on a low battery will push 100 amps into the battery.

Chris Roat wrote:
> Hey,
>
> I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
> dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
> heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
> solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
> found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
> wire up.
>
> Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
> removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
> manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
> tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
> links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
> amps enough here??
>
> This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
> while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
> Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
> As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
> :( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
> here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
> my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
> the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.
>
> Thanks!
> Chris
>

Re: '85 CJ7 repair problem
 

That's why these circuits use fusible links instead of a fuse. A fuse and
fuse holder would be too expensive, multiplied by thousands of units sold
per year. You could replace the fusible link with a circuit breaker, since
you will only be buying one of them.

Earle

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:MTAug.5352$vO.410@newsread4.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Alternator on a low battery will push 100 amps into the battery.
>
> Chris Roat wrote:
> > Hey,
> >
> > I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
> > dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
> > heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
> > solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
> > found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
> > wire up.
> >
> > Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
> > removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
> > manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
> > tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
> > links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
> > amps enough here??
> >
> > This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
> > while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
> > Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
> > As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
> > :( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
> > here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
> > my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
> > the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Chris
> >

Re: '85 CJ7 repair problem
 

That's why these circuits use fusible links instead of a fuse. A fuse and
fuse holder would be too expensive, multiplied by thousands of units sold
per year. You could replace the fusible link with a circuit breaker, since
you will only be buying one of them.

Earle

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:MTAug.5352$vO.410@newsread4.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Alternator on a low battery will push 100 amps into the battery.
>
> Chris Roat wrote:
> > Hey,
> >
> > I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
> > dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
> > heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
> > solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
> > found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
> > wire up.
> >
> > Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
> > removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
> > manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
> > tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
> > links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
> > amps enough here??
> >
> > This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
> > while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
> > Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
> > As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
> > :( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
> > here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
> > my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
> > the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Chris
> >

Re: '85 CJ7 repair problem
 

That's why these circuits use fusible links instead of a fuse. A fuse and
fuse holder would be too expensive, multiplied by thousands of units sold
per year. You could replace the fusible link with a circuit breaker, since
you will only be buying one of them.

Earle

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:MTAug.5352$vO.410@newsread4.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Alternator on a low battery will push 100 amps into the battery.
>
> Chris Roat wrote:
> > Hey,
> >
> > I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
> > dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
> > heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
> > solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
> > found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
> > wire up.
> >
> > Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
> > removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
> > manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
> > tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
> > links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
> > amps enough here??
> >
> > This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
> > while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
> > Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
> > As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
> > :( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
> > here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
> > my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
> > the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Chris
> >

Re: '85 CJ7 repair problem
 

You can purchase fuse link wire by the foot at lots of auto stores or at
the $tealership. You need close to the same length as was in there and
you need to crimp connect the wire in because solder will damage it. It
will be a 14 ga. fuse link wire protecting those circuits. Each one is
about 8" long.

The smoke was likely from a bad connection at the solenoid. Same for it
dying as soon as you stopped cranking it. New solenoids are less than
ten bucks.

I would replace the solenoid, clean up the connections, add the proper
chunks of wire and then see what happens. You would need something big,
like 60 or 100 A to replace the fuse links, but I 'don't' know the blow
out rating for the wire other than a dead short.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Chris Roat wrote:
>
> Hey,
>
> I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
> dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
> heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
> solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
> found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
> wire up.
>
> Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
> removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
> manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
> tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
> links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
> amps enough here??
>
> This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
> while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
> Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
> As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
> :( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
> here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
> my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
> the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.
>
> Thanks!
> Chris

Re: '85 CJ7 repair problem
 

You can purchase fuse link wire by the foot at lots of auto stores or at
the $tealership. You need close to the same length as was in there and
you need to crimp connect the wire in because solder will damage it. It
will be a 14 ga. fuse link wire protecting those circuits. Each one is
about 8" long.

The smoke was likely from a bad connection at the solenoid. Same for it
dying as soon as you stopped cranking it. New solenoids are less than
ten bucks.

I would replace the solenoid, clean up the connections, add the proper
chunks of wire and then see what happens. You would need something big,
like 60 or 100 A to replace the fuse links, but I 'don't' know the blow
out rating for the wire other than a dead short.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Chris Roat wrote:
>
> Hey,
>
> I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
> dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
> heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
> solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
> found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
> wire up.
>
> Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
> removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
> manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
> tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
> links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
> amps enough here??
>
> This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
> while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
> Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
> As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
> :( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
> here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
> my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
> the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.
>
> Thanks!
> Chris

Re: '85 CJ7 repair problem
 

You can purchase fuse link wire by the foot at lots of auto stores or at
the $tealership. You need close to the same length as was in there and
you need to crimp connect the wire in because solder will damage it. It
will be a 14 ga. fuse link wire protecting those circuits. Each one is
about 8" long.

The smoke was likely from a bad connection at the solenoid. Same for it
dying as soon as you stopped cranking it. New solenoids are less than
ten bucks.

I would replace the solenoid, clean up the connections, add the proper
chunks of wire and then see what happens. You would need something big,
like 60 or 100 A to replace the fuse links, but I 'don't' know the blow
out rating for the wire other than a dead short.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Chris Roat wrote:
>
> Hey,
>
> I discovered my jeep wouldn't start the other day... the battery was
> dead. When I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over - but I
> heard a lot of clicking and there was some smoking near the starter
> solenoid on the inside fender, passenger side. On closer inspection, I
> found some rubber was burning - presumably a short was heating up a
> wire up.
>
> Checking the wiring diagram, I found that the previous owner had
> removed the fuse links that go from the battery to the alternator,
> manifold heater, ignition switch, and a few other things. I couldn't
> tell what was shorting so I inserted two 10 amp fuses where the fuse
> links would go. One of the fuse links went to the alternator... is 10
> amps enough here??
>
> This time, the jump almost worked. She turned over and over for a
> while (phew, a big worry was gone - the starter motor was fine).
> Finally, she caught and started firing, but only for a half a second.
> As soon as the ignition kicked in, she basically died. What a bummer
> :( I found both fuses blown. So my question is... is 10 amps enough
> here for both fuses? If so, what should I be suspicious of as causing
> my problems? If it's not, how big should each fuse be? One goes to
> the alternator, one goes to the ignition switch and manifold heater.
>
> Thanks!
> Chris