'77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> A couple of quick checks:
>
> Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> tank?" check.
>
> Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
>
> Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
>
> If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> at the starter relay.
>
> If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
>
> During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> connectors.
>
Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
(with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
Thanks again for all your help,
*****
> A couple of quick checks:
>
> Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> tank?" check.
>
> Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
>
> Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
>
> If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> at the starter relay.
>
> If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
>
> During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> connectors.
>
Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
(with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
Thanks again for all your help,
*****
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> A couple of quick checks:
>
> Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> tank?" check.
>
> Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
>
> Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
>
> If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> at the starter relay.
>
> If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
>
> During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> connectors.
>
Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
(with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
Thanks again for all your help,
*****
> A couple of quick checks:
>
> Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> tank?" check.
>
> Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
>
> Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
>
> If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> at the starter relay.
>
> If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
>
> During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> connectors.
>
Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
(with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
Thanks again for all your help,
*****
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> A couple of quick checks:
>
> Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> tank?" check.
>
> Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
>
> Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
>
> If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> at the starter relay.
>
> If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
>
> During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> connectors.
>
Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
(with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
Thanks again for all your help,
*****
> A couple of quick checks:
>
> Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> tank?" check.
>
> Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
>
> Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
>
> If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> at the starter relay.
>
> If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
>
> During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> connectors.
>
Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
(with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
Thanks again for all your help,
*****
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
whyrmie@hotmail.com (Politzanian) wrote in message news:<8c4995b6.0404111611.58250e4a@posting.google. com>...
> Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > A couple of quick checks:
> >
> > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > tank?" check.
> >
> > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> >
> > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> > at the starter relay.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> >
> > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > connectors.
> >
>
> Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
>
> Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
>
> Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
>
> I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> *****
Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
help...
I got it running!
I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
only help.
Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
fall.
So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
.. . ... *****
> Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > A couple of quick checks:
> >
> > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > tank?" check.
> >
> > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> >
> > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> > at the starter relay.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> >
> > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > connectors.
> >
>
> Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
>
> Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
>
> Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
>
> I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> *****
Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
help...
I got it running!
I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
only help.
Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
fall.
So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
.. . ... *****
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
whyrmie@hotmail.com (Politzanian) wrote in message news:<8c4995b6.0404111611.58250e4a@posting.google. com>...
> Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > A couple of quick checks:
> >
> > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > tank?" check.
> >
> > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> >
> > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> > at the starter relay.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> >
> > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > connectors.
> >
>
> Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
>
> Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
>
> Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
>
> I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> *****
Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
help...
I got it running!
I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
only help.
Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
fall.
So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
.. . ... *****
> Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > A couple of quick checks:
> >
> > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > tank?" check.
> >
> > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> >
> > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> > at the starter relay.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> >
> > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > connectors.
> >
>
> Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
>
> Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
>
> Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
>
> I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> *****
Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
help...
I got it running!
I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
only help.
Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
fall.
So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
.. . ... *****
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
whyrmie@hotmail.com (Politzanian) wrote in message news:<8c4995b6.0404111611.58250e4a@posting.google. com>...
> Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > A couple of quick checks:
> >
> > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > tank?" check.
> >
> > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> >
> > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> > at the starter relay.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> >
> > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > connectors.
> >
>
> Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
>
> Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
>
> Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
>
> I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> *****
Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
help...
I got it running!
I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
only help.
Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
fall.
So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
.. . ... *****
> Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > A couple of quick checks:
> >
> > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > tank?" check.
> >
> > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> >
> > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> > at the starter relay.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> >
> > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > connectors.
> >
>
> Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
>
> Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
>
> Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
>
> I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> *****
Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
help...
I got it running!
I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
only help.
Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
fall.
So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
.. . ... *****
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
whyrmie@hotmail.com (Politzanian) wrote in message news:<8c4995b6.0404111611.58250e4a@posting.google. com>...
> Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > A couple of quick checks:
> >
> > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > tank?" check.
> >
> > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> >
> > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> > at the starter relay.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> >
> > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > connectors.
> >
>
> Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
>
> Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
>
> Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
>
> I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> *****
Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
help...
I got it running!
I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
only help.
Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
fall.
So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
.. . ... *****
> Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > A couple of quick checks:
> >
> > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > tank?" check.
> >
> > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> >
> > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> > at the starter relay.
> >
> > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> >
> > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > connectors.
> >
>
> Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
>
> Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
>
> Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
>
> I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> *****
Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
help...
I got it running!
I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
only help.
Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
fall.
So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
.. . ... *****
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
"Politzanian" <whyrmie@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8c4995b6.0404201856.45839d76@posting.google.c om...
> whyrmie@hotmail.com (Politzanian) wrote in message
news:<8c4995b6.0404111611.58250e4a@posting.google. com>...
> > Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > > A couple of quick checks:
> > >
> > > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with
the
> > > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > > tank?" check.
> > >
> > > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on,
but
> > > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If
you
> > > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and
can
> > > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> > >
> > > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get
one
> > > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real
needle
> > > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital
read-out.
> > > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking
from
> > > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the
starter
> > > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced
voltage
> > > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> > >
> > > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the
connection
> > > at the starter relay.
> > >
> > > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the
keyswitch
> > > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and
the
> > > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive
link
> > > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels
loose
> > > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector
block
> > > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself,
and,
> > > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> > >
> > > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition
module
> > > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces
old-tech
> > > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > > connectors.
> > >
> >
> > Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> > many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
> >
> > Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> > (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> > module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> > etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> > module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> > start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
> >
> > Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> > transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
> >
> > I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
> >
> > Thanks again for all your help,
> >
> > *****
>
>
> Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
> help...
>
> I got it running!
> I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
> definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
> probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
> the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
> the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
> one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
> found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
> only help.
>
> Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
> fall.
>
> So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
>
> . . ... *****
Whoever sent you after the connectors was right on the money. These things
used an early analog breakerless system and the common problem was stalling,
caused by momentary opens in the harness connectors.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
"Politzanian" <whyrmie@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8c4995b6.0404201856.45839d76@posting.google.c om...
> whyrmie@hotmail.com (Politzanian) wrote in message
news:<8c4995b6.0404111611.58250e4a@posting.google. com>...
> > Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > > A couple of quick checks:
> > >
> > > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with
the
> > > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > > tank?" check.
> > >
> > > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on,
but
> > > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If
you
> > > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and
can
> > > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> > >
> > > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get
one
> > > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real
needle
> > > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital
read-out.
> > > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking
from
> > > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the
starter
> > > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced
voltage
> > > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> > >
> > > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the
connection
> > > at the starter relay.
> > >
> > > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the
keyswitch
> > > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and
the
> > > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive
link
> > > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels
loose
> > > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector
block
> > > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself,
and,
> > > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> > >
> > > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition
module
> > > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces
old-tech
> > > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > > connectors.
> > >
> >
> > Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> > many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
> >
> > Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> > (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> > module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> > etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> > module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> > start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
> >
> > Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> > transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
> >
> > I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
> >
> > Thanks again for all your help,
> >
> > *****
>
>
> Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
> help...
>
> I got it running!
> I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
> definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
> probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
> the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
> the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
> one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
> found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
> only help.
>
> Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
> fall.
>
> So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
>
> . . ... *****
Whoever sent you after the connectors was right on the money. These things
used an early analog breakerless system and the common problem was stalling,
caused by momentary opens in the harness connectors.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '77 CJ5 Jeep w/electronic ignition problem
"Politzanian" <whyrmie@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8c4995b6.0404201856.45839d76@posting.google.c om...
> whyrmie@hotmail.com (Politzanian) wrote in message
news:<8c4995b6.0404111611.58250e4a@posting.google. com>...
> > Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> > > A couple of quick checks:
> > >
> > > Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with
the
> > > engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> > > tank?" check.
> > >
> > > Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on,
but
> > > pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If
you
> > > break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and
can
> > > be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
> > >
> > > Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get
one
> > > of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real
needle
> > > meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital
read-out.
> > > The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking
from
> > > the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the
starter
> > > relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced
voltage
> > > (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> > > resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> > > ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
> > >
> > > If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the
connection
> > > at the starter relay.
> > >
> > > If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the
keyswitch
> > > in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and
the
> > > ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive
link
> > > (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels
loose
> > > and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector
block
> > > where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself,
and,
> > > least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
> > >
> > > During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> > > meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition
module
> > > clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> > > doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces
old-tech
> > > points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> > > connectors.
> > >
> >
> > Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
> > many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.
> >
> > Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
> > (with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
> > module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
> > etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
> > module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
> > start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.
> >
> > Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
> > transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.
> >
> > I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.
> >
> > Thanks again for all your help,
> >
> > *****
>
>
> Just to follow up on this, and to thank you guys again for your
> help...
>
> I got it running!
> I can't be sure exactly what the problem was, except that it
> definitely wasn't the electronics module. My feeling is that it was
> probably those connectors to the module, which I cut out and soldered
> the wires as Gene suggested. But while I was at it, I also replaced
> the coil and some distributor innards. I know, I should have done it
> one step at a time just to know for sure what the problem was, but I
> found myself at the parts store and decided, what the heck, it could
> only help.
>
> Now I can finally fetch that firewood I stacked up on the hill last
> fall.
>
> So thanks again for the advice. ¶|;-D
>
> . . ... *****
Whoever sent you after the connectors was right on the money. These things
used an early analog breakerless system and the common problem was stalling,
caused by momentary opens in the harness connectors.
