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Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
It 'doesn't' operate properly, hence the overheating....
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Jon wrote: > > ... > > Please explain how a good fan clutch will operate properly with a > clogged (intermittently or not) radiator. > > ... |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
It 'doesn't' operate properly, hence the overheating....
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Jon wrote: > > ... > > Please explain how a good fan clutch will operate properly with a > clogged (intermittently or not) radiator. > > ... |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
In article <4584B494.BF5AED87@cox.net>,
L.W.(Bill) ------ III <----------@cox.net> wrote: #Hi James, # I would replace the thermostat, again, I've found many bad ones, #especially from Pep Boys. Make sure the radiator caps is holding at #least fifteen pounds to prevent the bottom hose from collapsing via a #clogged radiator. # God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O #mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ # Bill, The OP could also toss the thermostat into a pot of boiling water to see if it opens fully. /herb |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
In article <4584B494.BF5AED87@cox.net>,
L.W.(Bill) ------ III <----------@cox.net> wrote: #Hi James, # I would replace the thermostat, again, I've found many bad ones, #especially from Pep Boys. Make sure the radiator caps is holding at #least fifteen pounds to prevent the bottom hose from collapsing via a #clogged radiator. # God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O #mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ # Bill, The OP could also toss the thermostat into a pot of boiling water to see if it opens fully. /herb |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
In article <4584B494.BF5AED87@cox.net>,
L.W.(Bill) ------ III <----------@cox.net> wrote: #Hi James, # I would replace the thermostat, again, I've found many bad ones, #especially from Pep Boys. Make sure the radiator caps is holding at #least fifteen pounds to prevent the bottom hose from collapsing via a #clogged radiator. # God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O #mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ # Bill, The OP could also toss the thermostat into a pot of boiling water to see if it opens fully. /herb |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
In article <vsiao2dbv91ha5f96pstehkidvpga7to79@4ax.com>,
SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote: #A clutch fan is centrifical and bimetal thermostat controlled. It #engages when the bimetal control lets fluid into clutch disc area #faster than centrifical force can remove it. This is why it can #sometimes cool better at low speed because the centrifical forces are #not purging fluid from it faster than it is being replaced. Also at #low speeds the engine is making less power on average and needs less #cooling generally. When you put a big V8 in a small car the cooling #system has to be just right for it to keep its cool. I would consider #a electric fan as a last resort because it cannot come close to #matching the air flow capabilies of a engine driven clutch fan. To do #so would require more electric power than you vehicle can produce to #sustain it. The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically driven fan. /herb |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
In article <vsiao2dbv91ha5f96pstehkidvpga7to79@4ax.com>,
SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote: #A clutch fan is centrifical and bimetal thermostat controlled. It #engages when the bimetal control lets fluid into clutch disc area #faster than centrifical force can remove it. This is why it can #sometimes cool better at low speed because the centrifical forces are #not purging fluid from it faster than it is being replaced. Also at #low speeds the engine is making less power on average and needs less #cooling generally. When you put a big V8 in a small car the cooling #system has to be just right for it to keep its cool. I would consider #a electric fan as a last resort because it cannot come close to #matching the air flow capabilies of a engine driven clutch fan. To do #so would require more electric power than you vehicle can produce to #sustain it. The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically driven fan. /herb |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
In article <vsiao2dbv91ha5f96pstehkidvpga7to79@4ax.com>,
SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote: #A clutch fan is centrifical and bimetal thermostat controlled. It #engages when the bimetal control lets fluid into clutch disc area #faster than centrifical force can remove it. This is why it can #sometimes cool better at low speed because the centrifical forces are #not purging fluid from it faster than it is being replaced. Also at #low speeds the engine is making less power on average and needs less #cooling generally. When you put a big V8 in a small car the cooling #system has to be just right for it to keep its cool. I would consider #a electric fan as a last resort because it cannot come close to #matching the air flow capabilies of a engine driven clutch fan. To do #so would require more electric power than you vehicle can produce to #sustain it. The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically driven fan. /herb |
Re: Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 04:40:33 -0600, herb@urusei.net (Herb Leong)
wrote: >The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically >driven fan. I know that but the electrical one has no where near the cooling capacity of the engine driven one. For it to do so it would require more electrical power than the cars system can produce and sustain ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 04:40:33 -0600, herb@urusei.net (Herb Leong)
wrote: >The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically >driven fan. I know that but the electrical one has no where near the cooling capacity of the engine driven one. For it to do so it would require more electrical power than the cars system can produce and sustain ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 04:40:33 -0600, herb@urusei.net (Herb Leong)
wrote: >The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically >driven fan. I know that but the electrical one has no where near the cooling capacity of the engine driven one. For it to do so it would require more electrical power than the cars system can produce and sustain ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
Is the temp gauge electrical? I have not seen anybody suggest an
electrical/gauge problem. Maybe I missed it. Years ago a buddy had an old Dart with odd overheating symptoms. He temporarily rigged a ( calibrated, borrowed from work ) digital temp gauge and determined there really was no overheating. I don't recall whether he identified the exact problem but he changed the gauge and rewired. Problem solved. FWIW, doug "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:UP2hh.19089$Rj.5219@newsfe19.lga... > James wrote: >> I posted here about this before, and got some good info. >> >> Symptoms again.......... the car never overheats in town. Does not >> overheat sitting at a redlight. >> >> On the highway, at 70 mph or so, the engine runs about 10-15 >> degrees over what it normally does. Normally, it runs between >> 190-200 degrees, and now runs from 200 to 215 degrees. (Some will >> say this is normal. Maybe, but not for my car. First 120K miles, it >> ran cooler). > > Are you sure the temperature sender is working properly? > > Next time your overheating, turn on the inside heater on full > blast and watch what happens to the temperature. > > The pump can be wearing, but that's not usual. A clogged radiator > is alway a possibility. Basically you just drain it, and look inside. > > I just replaced my radiator after it sprang a small leak. Didn't look > that bad but there was some buildup. Not bad for a 1993 ZJ. > > -- > DougW > > > |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
Is the temp gauge electrical? I have not seen anybody suggest an
electrical/gauge problem. Maybe I missed it. Years ago a buddy had an old Dart with odd overheating symptoms. He temporarily rigged a ( calibrated, borrowed from work ) digital temp gauge and determined there really was no overheating. I don't recall whether he identified the exact problem but he changed the gauge and rewired. Problem solved. FWIW, doug "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:UP2hh.19089$Rj.5219@newsfe19.lga... > James wrote: >> I posted here about this before, and got some good info. >> >> Symptoms again.......... the car never overheats in town. Does not >> overheat sitting at a redlight. >> >> On the highway, at 70 mph or so, the engine runs about 10-15 >> degrees over what it normally does. Normally, it runs between >> 190-200 degrees, and now runs from 200 to 215 degrees. (Some will >> say this is normal. Maybe, but not for my car. First 120K miles, it >> ran cooler). > > Are you sure the temperature sender is working properly? > > Next time your overheating, turn on the inside heater on full > blast and watch what happens to the temperature. > > The pump can be wearing, but that's not usual. A clogged radiator > is alway a possibility. Basically you just drain it, and look inside. > > I just replaced my radiator after it sprang a small leak. Didn't look > that bad but there was some buildup. Not bad for a 1993 ZJ. > > -- > DougW > > > |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
Is the temp gauge electrical? I have not seen anybody suggest an
electrical/gauge problem. Maybe I missed it. Years ago a buddy had an old Dart with odd overheating symptoms. He temporarily rigged a ( calibrated, borrowed from work ) digital temp gauge and determined there really was no overheating. I don't recall whether he identified the exact problem but he changed the gauge and rewired. Problem solved. FWIW, doug "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:UP2hh.19089$Rj.5219@newsfe19.lga... > James wrote: >> I posted here about this before, and got some good info. >> >> Symptoms again.......... the car never overheats in town. Does not >> overheat sitting at a redlight. >> >> On the highway, at 70 mph or so, the engine runs about 10-15 >> degrees over what it normally does. Normally, it runs between >> 190-200 degrees, and now runs from 200 to 215 degrees. (Some will >> say this is normal. Maybe, but not for my car. First 120K miles, it >> ran cooler). > > Are you sure the temperature sender is working properly? > > Next time your overheating, turn on the inside heater on full > blast and watch what happens to the temperature. > > The pump can be wearing, but that's not usual. A clogged radiator > is alway a possibility. Basically you just drain it, and look inside. > > I just replaced my radiator after it sprang a small leak. Didn't look > that bad but there was some buildup. Not bad for a 1993 ZJ. > > -- > DougW > > > |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On the old Darts if you lost instrument panel ground all the gauges would
self destruct. Nasty problem. Earle "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message news:nOSdnbVssebzpxXYnZ2dnUVZ_vamnZ2d@comcast.com. .. > Is the temp gauge electrical? I have not seen anybody suggest an > electrical/gauge problem. Maybe I missed it. > > Years ago a buddy had an old Dart with odd overheating symptoms. He > temporarily rigged a ( calibrated, borrowed from work ) digital temp gauge > and determined there really was no overheating. I don't recall whether he > identified the exact problem but he changed the gauge and rewired. Problem > solved. > > FWIW, > doug > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message > news:UP2hh.19089$Rj.5219@newsfe19.lga... > > James wrote: > >> I posted here about this before, and got some good info. > >> > >> Symptoms again.......... the car never overheats in town. Does not > >> overheat sitting at a redlight. > >> > >> On the highway, at 70 mph or so, the engine runs about 10-15 > >> degrees over what it normally does. Normally, it runs between > >> 190-200 degrees, and now runs from 200 to 215 degrees. (Some will > >> say this is normal. Maybe, but not for my car. First 120K miles, it > >> ran cooler). > > > > Are you sure the temperature sender is working properly? > > > > Next time your overheating, turn on the inside heater on full > > blast and watch what happens to the temperature. > > > > The pump can be wearing, but that's not usual. A clogged radiator > > is alway a possibility. Basically you just drain it, and look inside. > > > > I just replaced my radiator after it sprang a small leak. Didn't look > > that bad but there was some buildup. Not bad for a 1993 ZJ. > > > > -- > > DougW > > > > > > > > |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On the old Darts if you lost instrument panel ground all the gauges would
self destruct. Nasty problem. Earle "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message news:nOSdnbVssebzpxXYnZ2dnUVZ_vamnZ2d@comcast.com. .. > Is the temp gauge electrical? I have not seen anybody suggest an > electrical/gauge problem. Maybe I missed it. > > Years ago a buddy had an old Dart with odd overheating symptoms. He > temporarily rigged a ( calibrated, borrowed from work ) digital temp gauge > and determined there really was no overheating. I don't recall whether he > identified the exact problem but he changed the gauge and rewired. Problem > solved. > > FWIW, > doug > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message > news:UP2hh.19089$Rj.5219@newsfe19.lga... > > James wrote: > >> I posted here about this before, and got some good info. > >> > >> Symptoms again.......... the car never overheats in town. Does not > >> overheat sitting at a redlight. > >> > >> On the highway, at 70 mph or so, the engine runs about 10-15 > >> degrees over what it normally does. Normally, it runs between > >> 190-200 degrees, and now runs from 200 to 215 degrees. (Some will > >> say this is normal. Maybe, but not for my car. First 120K miles, it > >> ran cooler). > > > > Are you sure the temperature sender is working properly? > > > > Next time your overheating, turn on the inside heater on full > > blast and watch what happens to the temperature. > > > > The pump can be wearing, but that's not usual. A clogged radiator > > is alway a possibility. Basically you just drain it, and look inside. > > > > I just replaced my radiator after it sprang a small leak. Didn't look > > that bad but there was some buildup. Not bad for a 1993 ZJ. > > > > -- > > DougW > > > > > > > > |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On the old Darts if you lost instrument panel ground all the gauges would
self destruct. Nasty problem. Earle "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message news:nOSdnbVssebzpxXYnZ2dnUVZ_vamnZ2d@comcast.com. .. > Is the temp gauge electrical? I have not seen anybody suggest an > electrical/gauge problem. Maybe I missed it. > > Years ago a buddy had an old Dart with odd overheating symptoms. He > temporarily rigged a ( calibrated, borrowed from work ) digital temp gauge > and determined there really was no overheating. I don't recall whether he > identified the exact problem but he changed the gauge and rewired. Problem > solved. > > FWIW, > doug > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message > news:UP2hh.19089$Rj.5219@newsfe19.lga... > > James wrote: > >> I posted here about this before, and got some good info. > >> > >> Symptoms again.......... the car never overheats in town. Does not > >> overheat sitting at a redlight. > >> > >> On the highway, at 70 mph or so, the engine runs about 10-15 > >> degrees over what it normally does. Normally, it runs between > >> 190-200 degrees, and now runs from 200 to 215 degrees. (Some will > >> say this is normal. Maybe, but not for my car. First 120K miles, it > >> ran cooler). > > > > Are you sure the temperature sender is working properly? > > > > Next time your overheating, turn on the inside heater on full > > blast and watch what happens to the temperature. > > > > The pump can be wearing, but that's not usual. A clogged radiator > > is alway a possibility. Basically you just drain it, and look inside. > > > > I just replaced my radiator after it sprang a small leak. Didn't look > > that bad but there was some buildup. Not bad for a 1993 ZJ. > > > > -- > > DougW > > > > > > > > |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
Hi Herb,
Of course, but my guess was it was stuck half open to run normally until he pulled a hill. I have found many that way on my own cars shortly before I have to make sure the engine reaches full operating temperature at smog inspection. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Herb Leong wrote: > > Bill, > > The OP could also toss the thermostat into a pot of boiling water > to see if it opens fully. > > /herb |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
Hi Herb,
Of course, but my guess was it was stuck half open to run normally until he pulled a hill. I have found many that way on my own cars shortly before I have to make sure the engine reaches full operating temperature at smog inspection. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Herb Leong wrote: > > Bill, > > The OP could also toss the thermostat into a pot of boiling water > to see if it opens fully. > > /herb |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
Hi Herb,
Of course, but my guess was it was stuck half open to run normally until he pulled a hill. I have found many that way on my own cars shortly before I have to make sure the engine reaches full operating temperature at smog inspection. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Herb Leong wrote: > > Bill, > > The OP could also toss the thermostat into a pot of boiling water > to see if it opens fully. > > /herb |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 04:40:33 -0600, herb@urusei.net (Herb Leong)
wrote: >In article <vsiao2dbv91ha5f96pstehkidvpga7to79@4ax.com>, >SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote: >#A clutch fan is centrifical and bimetal thermostat controlled. It >#engages when the bimetal control lets fluid into clutch disc area >#faster than centrifical force can remove it. This is why it can >#sometimes cool better at low speed because the centrifical forces are >#not purging fluid from it faster than it is being replaced. Also at >#low speeds the engine is making less power on average and needs less >#cooling generally. When you put a big V8 in a small car the cooling >#system has to be just right for it to keep its cool. I would consider >#a electric fan as a last resort because it cannot come close to >#matching the air flow capabilies of a engine driven clutch fan. To do >#so would require more electric power than you vehicle can produce to >#sustain it. > >The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically >driven fan. > >/herb The electric fan in a hybrid fan system is only intended to provide airflow for the condenser at idle and low speed and the effect is gone by 25 MPH vehicle speed.. It is rated in the 200 -250 W range. A typical engine driven fan in a typical V8 SUV or Pick-up runs up to around 5 HP which equals 4.3kW, far exceeding the alternator capacity. Big blocks and diesels even more ... Bi-Metal controlled fan clutches either work or they don't work, the bi-metal adjustment mentioned elsewhere is either compensating for poor initial calibration or the addition of additional heat exchangers in the airstream (large aftermarket transmission oil coolers for example). The amount of fluid in a clutch is pretty small so a small leak quickly kills the clutch function. Intermittent cooling system problems are nearly always related to thermostat function or lower hose collapse at high RPM. --- avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. Virus Database (VPS): 0660-0, 12/19/2006 Tested on: 12/19/2006 9:43:14 PM avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2006 ALWIL Software. http://www.avast.com |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 04:40:33 -0600, herb@urusei.net (Herb Leong)
wrote: >In article <vsiao2dbv91ha5f96pstehkidvpga7to79@4ax.com>, >SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote: >#A clutch fan is centrifical and bimetal thermostat controlled. It >#engages when the bimetal control lets fluid into clutch disc area >#faster than centrifical force can remove it. This is why it can >#sometimes cool better at low speed because the centrifical forces are >#not purging fluid from it faster than it is being replaced. Also at >#low speeds the engine is making less power on average and needs less >#cooling generally. When you put a big V8 in a small car the cooling >#system has to be just right for it to keep its cool. I would consider >#a electric fan as a last resort because it cannot come close to >#matching the air flow capabilies of a engine driven clutch fan. To do >#so would require more electric power than you vehicle can produce to >#sustain it. > >The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically >driven fan. > >/herb The electric fan in a hybrid fan system is only intended to provide airflow for the condenser at idle and low speed and the effect is gone by 25 MPH vehicle speed.. It is rated in the 200 -250 W range. A typical engine driven fan in a typical V8 SUV or Pick-up runs up to around 5 HP which equals 4.3kW, far exceeding the alternator capacity. Big blocks and diesels even more ... Bi-Metal controlled fan clutches either work or they don't work, the bi-metal adjustment mentioned elsewhere is either compensating for poor initial calibration or the addition of additional heat exchangers in the airstream (large aftermarket transmission oil coolers for example). The amount of fluid in a clutch is pretty small so a small leak quickly kills the clutch function. Intermittent cooling system problems are nearly always related to thermostat function or lower hose collapse at high RPM. --- avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. Virus Database (VPS): 0660-0, 12/19/2006 Tested on: 12/19/2006 9:43:14 PM avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2006 ALWIL Software. http://www.avast.com |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 04:40:33 -0600, herb@urusei.net (Herb Leong)
wrote: >In article <vsiao2dbv91ha5f96pstehkidvpga7to79@4ax.com>, >SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote: >#A clutch fan is centrifical and bimetal thermostat controlled. It >#engages when the bimetal control lets fluid into clutch disc area >#faster than centrifical force can remove it. This is why it can >#sometimes cool better at low speed because the centrifical forces are >#not purging fluid from it faster than it is being replaced. Also at >#low speeds the engine is making less power on average and needs less >#cooling generally. When you put a big V8 in a small car the cooling >#system has to be just right for it to keep its cool. I would consider >#a electric fan as a last resort because it cannot come close to >#matching the air flow capabilies of a engine driven clutch fan. To do >#so would require more electric power than you vehicle can produce to >#sustain it. > >The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically >driven fan. > >/herb The electric fan in a hybrid fan system is only intended to provide airflow for the condenser at idle and low speed and the effect is gone by 25 MPH vehicle speed.. It is rated in the 200 -250 W range. A typical engine driven fan in a typical V8 SUV or Pick-up runs up to around 5 HP which equals 4.3kW, far exceeding the alternator capacity. Big blocks and diesels even more ... Bi-Metal controlled fan clutches either work or they don't work, the bi-metal adjustment mentioned elsewhere is either compensating for poor initial calibration or the addition of additional heat exchangers in the airstream (large aftermarket transmission oil coolers for example). The amount of fluid in a clutch is pretty small so a small leak quickly kills the clutch function. Intermittent cooling system problems are nearly always related to thermostat function or lower hose collapse at high RPM. --- avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. Virus Database (VPS): 0660-0, 12/19/2006 Tested on: 12/19/2006 9:43:14 PM avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2006 ALWIL Software. http://www.avast.com |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
My WJ came from the factory with just an electric fan and it has never
overheated or run hot for that matter... "reboot" <reboot@nothere.com> wrote in message news:el7ho2hbim91t0ra6hkg72c14k0u9cu7qi@4ax.com... > On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 04:40:33 -0600, herb@urusei.net (Herb Leong) > wrote: > >>In article <vsiao2dbv91ha5f96pstehkidvpga7to79@4ax.com>, >>SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote: >>#A clutch fan is centrifical and bimetal thermostat controlled. It >>#engages when the bimetal control lets fluid into clutch disc area >>#faster than centrifical force can remove it. This is why it can >>#sometimes cool better at low speed because the centrifical forces are >>#not purging fluid from it faster than it is being replaced. Also at >>#low speeds the engine is making less power on average and needs less >>#cooling generally. When you put a big V8 in a small car the cooling >>#system has to be just right for it to keep its cool. I would consider >>#a electric fan as a last resort because it cannot come close to >>#matching the air flow capabilies of a engine driven clutch fan. To do >>#so would require more electric power than you vehicle can produce to >>#sustain it. >> >>The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically >>driven fan. >> >>/herb > > The electric fan in a hybrid fan system is only intended to provide > airflow for the condenser at idle and low speed and the effect is gone > by 25 MPH vehicle speed.. It is rated in the 200 -250 W range. > > A typical engine driven fan in a typical V8 SUV or Pick-up runs up to > around 5 HP which equals 4.3kW, far exceeding the alternator capacity. > Big blocks and diesels even more ... > > Bi-Metal controlled fan clutches either work or they don't work, the > bi-metal adjustment mentioned elsewhere is either compensating for > poor initial calibration or the addition of additional heat exchangers > in the airstream (large aftermarket transmission oil coolers for > example). The amount of fluid in a clutch is pretty small so a small > leak quickly kills the clutch function. > > Intermittent cooling system problems are nearly always related to > thermostat function or lower hose collapse at high RPM. > > > --- > avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. > Virus Database (VPS): 0660-0, 12/19/2006 > Tested on: 12/19/2006 9:43:14 PM > avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2006 ALWIL Software. > http://www.avast.com > > > |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
My WJ came from the factory with just an electric fan and it has never
overheated or run hot for that matter... "reboot" <reboot@nothere.com> wrote in message news:el7ho2hbim91t0ra6hkg72c14k0u9cu7qi@4ax.com... > On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 04:40:33 -0600, herb@urusei.net (Herb Leong) > wrote: > >>In article <vsiao2dbv91ha5f96pstehkidvpga7to79@4ax.com>, >>SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote: >>#A clutch fan is centrifical and bimetal thermostat controlled. It >>#engages when the bimetal control lets fluid into clutch disc area >>#faster than centrifical force can remove it. This is why it can >>#sometimes cool better at low speed because the centrifical forces are >>#not purging fluid from it faster than it is being replaced. Also at >>#low speeds the engine is making less power on average and needs less >>#cooling generally. When you put a big V8 in a small car the cooling >>#system has to be just right for it to keep its cool. I would consider >>#a electric fan as a last resort because it cannot come close to >>#matching the air flow capabilies of a engine driven clutch fan. To do >>#so would require more electric power than you vehicle can produce to >>#sustain it. >> >>The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically >>driven fan. >> >>/herb > > The electric fan in a hybrid fan system is only intended to provide > airflow for the condenser at idle and low speed and the effect is gone > by 25 MPH vehicle speed.. It is rated in the 200 -250 W range. > > A typical engine driven fan in a typical V8 SUV or Pick-up runs up to > around 5 HP which equals 4.3kW, far exceeding the alternator capacity. > Big blocks and diesels even more ... > > Bi-Metal controlled fan clutches either work or they don't work, the > bi-metal adjustment mentioned elsewhere is either compensating for > poor initial calibration or the addition of additional heat exchangers > in the airstream (large aftermarket transmission oil coolers for > example). The amount of fluid in a clutch is pretty small so a small > leak quickly kills the clutch function. > > Intermittent cooling system problems are nearly always related to > thermostat function or lower hose collapse at high RPM. > > > --- > avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. > Virus Database (VPS): 0660-0, 12/19/2006 > Tested on: 12/19/2006 9:43:14 PM > avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2006 ALWIL Software. > http://www.avast.com > > > |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
My WJ came from the factory with just an electric fan and it has never
overheated or run hot for that matter... "reboot" <reboot@nothere.com> wrote in message news:el7ho2hbim91t0ra6hkg72c14k0u9cu7qi@4ax.com... > On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 04:40:33 -0600, herb@urusei.net (Herb Leong) > wrote: > >>In article <vsiao2dbv91ha5f96pstehkidvpga7to79@4ax.com>, >>SnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote: >>#A clutch fan is centrifical and bimetal thermostat controlled. It >>#engages when the bimetal control lets fluid into clutch disc area >>#faster than centrifical force can remove it. This is why it can >>#sometimes cool better at low speed because the centrifical forces are >>#not purging fluid from it faster than it is being replaced. Also at >>#low speeds the engine is making less power on average and needs less >>#cooling generally. When you put a big V8 in a small car the cooling >>#system has to be just right for it to keep its cool. I would consider >>#a electric fan as a last resort because it cannot come close to >>#matching the air flow capabilies of a engine driven clutch fan. To do >>#so would require more electric power than you vehicle can produce to >>#sustain it. >> >>The WJ's v8 has a electricly driven fan in addition to the mechanically >>driven fan. >> >>/herb > > The electric fan in a hybrid fan system is only intended to provide > airflow for the condenser at idle and low speed and the effect is gone > by 25 MPH vehicle speed.. It is rated in the 200 -250 W range. > > A typical engine driven fan in a typical V8 SUV or Pick-up runs up to > around 5 HP which equals 4.3kW, far exceeding the alternator capacity. > Big blocks and diesels even more ... > > Bi-Metal controlled fan clutches either work or they don't work, the > bi-metal adjustment mentioned elsewhere is either compensating for > poor initial calibration or the addition of additional heat exchangers > in the airstream (large aftermarket transmission oil coolers for > example). The amount of fluid in a clutch is pretty small so a small > leak quickly kills the clutch function. > > Intermittent cooling system problems are nearly always related to > thermostat function or lower hose collapse at high RPM. > > > --- > avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. > Virus Database (VPS): 0660-0, 12/19/2006 > Tested on: 12/19/2006 9:43:14 PM > avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2006 ALWIL Software. > http://www.avast.com > > > |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
you can find almost exact statement in the service manul
SnoMan wrote: > On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 17:45:10 -0500, philthy <dbrider@cac.net> wrote: > > >spin the fan while it is cold and if there is a drag on the fan then it is ok > > Not alway true, all it does tell you if the fluid has leaked out of it > because it leaks in to clutch area normally when it sits overnight > after gettting warm. It does not tell you if the bimetal coil is > working properly for your tempature conditions. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
you can find almost exact statement in the service manul
SnoMan wrote: > On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 17:45:10 -0500, philthy <dbrider@cac.net> wrote: > > >spin the fan while it is cold and if there is a drag on the fan then it is ok > > Not alway true, all it does tell you if the fluid has leaked out of it > because it leaks in to clutch area normally when it sits overnight > after gettting warm. It does not tell you if the bimetal coil is > working properly for your tempature conditions. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
you can find almost exact statement in the service manul
SnoMan wrote: > On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 17:45:10 -0500, philthy <dbrider@cac.net> wrote: > > >spin the fan while it is cold and if there is a drag on the fan then it is ok > > Not alway true, all it does tell you if the fluid has leaked out of it > because it leaks in to clutch area normally when it sits overnight > after gettting warm. It does not tell you if the bimetal coil is > working properly for your tempature conditions. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 18:56:16 -0500, philthy <dbrider@cac.net> wrote:
>you can find almost exact statement in the service manul Service manual is not the gosphel and one reason why there are so mnay TSB's and updates on them because they are not always 100% correct. Spinning it will just tell you if there is still fluid in it, not if it is calibrated properly ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 18:56:16 -0500, philthy <dbrider@cac.net> wrote:
>you can find almost exact statement in the service manul Service manual is not the gosphel and one reason why there are so mnay TSB's and updates on them because they are not always 100% correct. Spinning it will just tell you if there is still fluid in it, not if it is calibrated properly ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 18:56:16 -0500, philthy <dbrider@cac.net> wrote:
>you can find almost exact statement in the service manul Service manual is not the gosphel and one reason why there are so mnay TSB's and updates on them because they are not always 100% correct. Spinning it will just tell you if there is still fluid in it, not if it is calibrated properly ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
i work on least 30 cars and trucks a week
trust me when i say it it should have a slight drag when spinning it by hand if not it'sjunk nad if it's real hard to move it might have a bad bearing SnoMan wrote: > On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 18:56:16 -0500, philthy <dbrider@cac.net> wrote: > > >you can find almost exact statement in the service manul > > Service manual is not the gosphel and one reason why there are so > mnay TSB's and updates on them because they are not always 100% > correct. Spinning it will just tell you if there is still fluid in it, > not if it is calibrated properly > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
i work on least 30 cars and trucks a week
trust me when i say it it should have a slight drag when spinning it by hand if not it'sjunk nad if it's real hard to move it might have a bad bearing SnoMan wrote: > On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 18:56:16 -0500, philthy <dbrider@cac.net> wrote: > > >you can find almost exact statement in the service manul > > Service manual is not the gosphel and one reason why there are so > mnay TSB's and updates on them because they are not always 100% > correct. Spinning it will just tell you if there is still fluid in it, > not if it is calibrated properly > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 2000 JGC V-8 overheating/ occasionally only !!
i work on least 30 cars and trucks a week
trust me when i say it it should have a slight drag when spinning it by hand if not it'sjunk nad if it's real hard to move it might have a bad bearing SnoMan wrote: > On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 18:56:16 -0500, philthy <dbrider@cac.net> wrote: > > >you can find almost exact statement in the service manul > > Service manual is not the gosphel and one reason why there are so > mnay TSB's and updates on them because they are not always 100% > correct. Spinning it will just tell you if there is still fluid in it, > not if it is calibrated properly > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com |
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