I wrote in a few weeks back about my Wagoneer backfiring and the dying
on the way back from NH. Thankfully your advice was right. I rebuilt
the carb, replaced the disributer and plugs and got it going. I had
some one else set the timing and replace the muffler (previous owner
removed the catalytic converter so I had it replaced). Now the issues
are 1) the idle starts out very high and won't kick down when the
engine warms, the suddenly drops very low and engine idle will surge
then ebb. 2) high pitched whining sound which seems to be coming from
below the air pump, possibly the fuel pump?. 3) choke themostat
should be replaced but not sure what would cause idle to race when
choke is fully opened. Any ideas?

 

jimmy3stix@comcast.net wrote:
> I wrote in a few weeks back about my Wagoneer backfiring and the dying
> on the way back from NH. Thankfully your advice was right. I rebuilt
> the carb, replaced the disributer and plugs and got it going. I had
> some one else set the timing and replace the muffler (previous owner
> removed the catalytic converter so I had it replaced). Now the issues
> are 1) the idle starts out very high and won't kick down when the
> engine warms, the suddenly drops very low and engine idle will surge
> then ebb. 2) high pitched whining sound which seems to be coming from
> below the air pump, possibly the fuel pump?. 3) choke themostat
> should be replaced but not sure what would cause idle to race when
> choke is fully opened. Any ideas?
>


Sounds like the high speed and curb idle settings need adjustment, and
possibly the fast idle cam linkage that connects to the choke.

The first thing I would do when the engine dies out is look to see if
the idle speed screw on the throttle cable side of the carb is touching
the throttle lever. If it isn't either the screw is backed out way too
far, or the fast idle speed screw is still controlling the idle speed.

My guess is that what's happing is that the fast idle linkage is out of
adjustment, and eventually the fast idle screw loses contact with the
fast idle cam, and that is when your engine dies out, even though it
sounds like it is staying on the fast idle cam longer than it should.

Turn the curb idle screw in 1/2 turn or so and back the fast idle screw
out several turns for now, just to get the curb idle screw in contact
with the throttle linkage. Start the engine and warm it up, then set
the idle speed and mixture properly. your carb kit instructions or your
owners manual should have the specs for setting the idle and fast idle
speeds, but you may have to tweak the fast idle speed somewhat. Every
engine likes it a little different, and climate is a factor also.

After the curb idle speed is straightened out, then set the fast idle
speed. This is normally done with the engine warm, and the choke open,
but you will have to manually move the fast idle cam linkage to get the
fast idle screw on to the cam. the manual or instructions should tell
you which step to set the fast idle speed on. Before you do the fast
idle speed though, I would double check the linkage adjustment per the
carb rebuild kit instructions. It sounds like there is a problem there.

Chris

 

jimmy3stix@comcast.net wrote:
> I wrote in a few weeks back about my Wagoneer backfiring and the dying
> on the way back from NH. Thankfully your advice was right. I rebuilt
> the carb, replaced the disributer and plugs and got it going. I had
> some one else set the timing and replace the muffler (previous owner
> removed the catalytic converter so I had it replaced). Now the issues
> are 1) the idle starts out very high and won't kick down when the
> engine warms, the suddenly drops very low and engine idle will surge
> then ebb. 2) high pitched whining sound which seems to be coming from
> below the air pump, possibly the fuel pump?. 3) choke themostat
> should be replaced but not sure what would cause idle to race when
> choke is fully opened. Any ideas?
>


Sounds like the high speed and curb idle settings need adjustment, and
possibly the fast idle cam linkage that connects to the choke.

The first thing I would do when the engine dies out is look to see if
the idle speed screw on the throttle cable side of the carb is touching
the throttle lever. If it isn't either the screw is backed out way too
far, or the fast idle speed screw is still controlling the idle speed.

My guess is that what's happing is that the fast idle linkage is out of
adjustment, and eventually the fast idle screw loses contact with the
fast idle cam, and that is when your engine dies out, even though it
sounds like it is staying on the fast idle cam longer than it should.

Turn the curb idle screw in 1/2 turn or so and back the fast idle screw
out several turns for now, just to get the curb idle screw in contact
with the throttle linkage. Start the engine and warm it up, then set
the idle speed and mixture properly. your carb kit instructions or your
owners manual should have the specs for setting the idle and fast idle
speeds, but you may have to tweak the fast idle speed somewhat. Every
engine likes it a little different, and climate is a factor also.

After the curb idle speed is straightened out, then set the fast idle
speed. This is normally done with the engine warm, and the choke open,
but you will have to manually move the fast idle cam linkage to get the
fast idle screw on to the cam. the manual or instructions should tell
you which step to set the fast idle speed on. Before you do the fast
idle speed though, I would double check the linkage adjustment per the
carb rebuild kit instructions. It sounds like there is a problem there.

Chris

 

jimmy3stix@comcast.net wrote:
> I wrote in a few weeks back about my Wagoneer backfiring and the dying
> on the way back from NH. Thankfully your advice was right. I rebuilt
> the carb, replaced the disributer and plugs and got it going. I had
> some one else set the timing and replace the muffler (previous owner
> removed the catalytic converter so I had it replaced). Now the issues
> are 1) the idle starts out very high and won't kick down when the
> engine warms, the suddenly drops very low and engine idle will surge
> then ebb. 2) high pitched whining sound which seems to be coming from
> below the air pump, possibly the fuel pump?. 3) choke themostat
> should be replaced but not sure what would cause idle to race when
> choke is fully opened. Any ideas?
>


Sounds like the high speed and curb idle settings need adjustment, and
possibly the fast idle cam linkage that connects to the choke.

The first thing I would do when the engine dies out is look to see if
the idle speed screw on the throttle cable side of the carb is touching
the throttle lever. If it isn't either the screw is backed out way too
far, or the fast idle speed screw is still controlling the idle speed.

My guess is that what's happing is that the fast idle linkage is out of
adjustment, and eventually the fast idle screw loses contact with the
fast idle cam, and that is when your engine dies out, even though it
sounds like it is staying on the fast idle cam longer than it should.

Turn the curb idle screw in 1/2 turn or so and back the fast idle screw
out several turns for now, just to get the curb idle screw in contact
with the throttle linkage. Start the engine and warm it up, then set
the idle speed and mixture properly. your carb kit instructions or your
owners manual should have the specs for setting the idle and fast idle
speeds, but you may have to tweak the fast idle speed somewhat. Every
engine likes it a little different, and climate is a factor also.

After the curb idle speed is straightened out, then set the fast idle
speed. This is normally done with the engine warm, and the choke open,
but you will have to manually move the fast idle cam linkage to get the
fast idle screw on to the cam. the manual or instructions should tell
you which step to set the fast idle speed on. Before you do the fast
idle speed though, I would double check the linkage adjustment per the
carb rebuild kit instructions. It sounds like there is a problem there.

Chris

 

jimmy3stix@comcast.net wrote:
> I wrote in a few weeks back about my Wagoneer backfiring and the dying
> on the way back from NH. Thankfully your advice was right. I rebuilt
> the carb, replaced the disributer and plugs and got it going. I had
> some one else set the timing and replace the muffler (previous owner
> removed the catalytic converter so I had it replaced). Now the issues
> are 1) the idle starts out very high and won't kick down when the
> engine warms, the suddenly drops very low and engine idle will surge
> then ebb. 2) high pitched whining sound which seems to be coming from
> below the air pump, possibly the fuel pump?. 3) choke themostat
> should be replaced but not sure what would cause idle to race when
> choke is fully opened. Any ideas?
>


Sounds like the high speed and curb idle settings need adjustment, and
possibly the fast idle cam linkage that connects to the choke.

The first thing I would do when the engine dies out is look to see if
the idle speed screw on the throttle cable side of the carb is touching
the throttle lever. If it isn't either the screw is backed out way too
far, or the fast idle speed screw is still controlling the idle speed.

My guess is that what's happing is that the fast idle linkage is out of
adjustment, and eventually the fast idle screw loses contact with the
fast idle cam, and that is when your engine dies out, even though it
sounds like it is staying on the fast idle cam longer than it should.

Turn the curb idle screw in 1/2 turn or so and back the fast idle screw
out several turns for now, just to get the curb idle screw in contact
with the throttle linkage. Start the engine and warm it up, then set
the idle speed and mixture properly. your carb kit instructions or your
owners manual should have the specs for setting the idle and fast idle
speeds, but you may have to tweak the fast idle speed somewhat. Every
engine likes it a little different, and climate is a factor also.

After the curb idle speed is straightened out, then set the fast idle
speed. This is normally done with the engine warm, and the choke open,
but you will have to manually move the fast idle cam linkage to get the
fast idle screw on to the cam. the manual or instructions should tell
you which step to set the fast idle speed on. Before you do the fast
idle speed though, I would double check the linkage adjustment per the
carb rebuild kit instructions. It sounds like there is a problem there.

Chris