1" body lift question
 

My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.

I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
all turn.
The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
screwdriver and get the bolt back in.


I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
to get at it?

Re: 1" body lift question
 

The "nut" is really a flat plate-like thingy that has a threaded hole. It is
captivated by dimples, so it won't go anywhere, but it can move around when
the bolt is removed. You can easily line up the nutplate with a screw driver
then insert the nut and get it started.

I suggest you loosen all of the bolts BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Then, use a
HiLift jack, or a floor jack and a suitable extension device to gently lift
one side, left or right, then remove the bolts on the side you have started
to lift. Raise the side yo are woriking on just enough to get the old
bushings out and the new ones in. Put the bolts back in, leaving them loose,
and move around to the other side and repeat. Once all of the bushings are
in place, tighten all bolts. You do not need to lift the vehicle off the
ground, but you do need to raise the body off of the chassis. Obviously, a
smart guy would put a block between the body and the frame to prevent the
fingers from being smashed should the tub fall off of the lifting device.

The driver's side requires special attention because if you raise it too
high, you can disconnect brake lines and or the clutch line. If you take
care and watch what you are doing, you can avoid a mistake that causes extra
work. All that is needed is a guy to watch what is happening while another
guy GENTLY lifts the tub.





"Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdab55d6.0410270722.7a7adedd@posting.google.c om...
> My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.
>
> I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
> all turn.
> The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
> whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
> screwdriver and get the bolt back in.
>
>
> I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
> new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
> to get at it?

Re: 1" body lift question
 

The "nut" is really a flat plate-like thingy that has a threaded hole. It is
captivated by dimples, so it won't go anywhere, but it can move around when
the bolt is removed. You can easily line up the nutplate with a screw driver
then insert the nut and get it started.

I suggest you loosen all of the bolts BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Then, use a
HiLift jack, or a floor jack and a suitable extension device to gently lift
one side, left or right, then remove the bolts on the side you have started
to lift. Raise the side yo are woriking on just enough to get the old
bushings out and the new ones in. Put the bolts back in, leaving them loose,
and move around to the other side and repeat. Once all of the bushings are
in place, tighten all bolts. You do not need to lift the vehicle off the
ground, but you do need to raise the body off of the chassis. Obviously, a
smart guy would put a block between the body and the frame to prevent the
fingers from being smashed should the tub fall off of the lifting device.

The driver's side requires special attention because if you raise it too
high, you can disconnect brake lines and or the clutch line. If you take
care and watch what you are doing, you can avoid a mistake that causes extra
work. All that is needed is a guy to watch what is happening while another
guy GENTLY lifts the tub.





"Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdab55d6.0410270722.7a7adedd@posting.google.c om...
> My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.
>
> I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
> all turn.
> The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
> whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
> screwdriver and get the bolt back in.
>
>
> I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
> new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
> to get at it?

Re: 1" body lift question
 

The "nut" is really a flat plate-like thingy that has a threaded hole. It is
captivated by dimples, so it won't go anywhere, but it can move around when
the bolt is removed. You can easily line up the nutplate with a screw driver
then insert the nut and get it started.

I suggest you loosen all of the bolts BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Then, use a
HiLift jack, or a floor jack and a suitable extension device to gently lift
one side, left or right, then remove the bolts on the side you have started
to lift. Raise the side yo are woriking on just enough to get the old
bushings out and the new ones in. Put the bolts back in, leaving them loose,
and move around to the other side and repeat. Once all of the bushings are
in place, tighten all bolts. You do not need to lift the vehicle off the
ground, but you do need to raise the body off of the chassis. Obviously, a
smart guy would put a block between the body and the frame to prevent the
fingers from being smashed should the tub fall off of the lifting device.

The driver's side requires special attention because if you raise it too
high, you can disconnect brake lines and or the clutch line. If you take
care and watch what you are doing, you can avoid a mistake that causes extra
work. All that is needed is a guy to watch what is happening while another
guy GENTLY lifts the tub.





"Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdab55d6.0410270722.7a7adedd@posting.google.c om...
> My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.
>
> I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
> all turn.
> The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
> whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
> screwdriver and get the bolt back in.
>
>
> I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
> new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
> to get at it?

Re: 1" body lift question
 

Thanks for the info Jeff!

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<10nvjov1ttbord6@corp.supernews.com>...
> The "nut" is really a flat plate-like thingy that has a threaded hole. It is
> captivated by dimples, so it won't go anywhere, but it can move around when
> the bolt is removed. You can easily line up the nutplate with a screw driver
> then insert the nut and get it started.
>
> I suggest you loosen all of the bolts BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Then, use a
> HiLift jack, or a floor jack and a suitable extension device to gently lift
> one side, left or right, then remove the bolts on the side you have started
> to lift. Raise the side yo are woriking on just enough to get the old
> bushings out and the new ones in. Put the bolts back in, leaving them loose,
> and move around to the other side and repeat. Once all of the bushings are
> in place, tighten all bolts. You do not need to lift the vehicle off the
> ground, but you do need to raise the body off of the chassis. Obviously, a
> smart guy would put a block between the body and the frame to prevent the
> fingers from being smashed should the tub fall off of the lifting device.
>
> The driver's side requires special attention because if you raise it too
> high, you can disconnect brake lines and or the clutch line. If you take
> care and watch what you are doing, you can avoid a mistake that causes extra
> work. All that is needed is a guy to watch what is happening while another
> guy GENTLY lifts the tub.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:bdab55d6.0410270722.7a7adedd@posting.google.c om...
> > My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.
> >
> > I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
> > all turn.
> > The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
> > whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
> > screwdriver and get the bolt back in.
> >
> >
> > I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
> > new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
> > to get at it?

Re: 1" body lift question
 

Thanks for the info Jeff!

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<10nvjov1ttbord6@corp.supernews.com>...
> The "nut" is really a flat plate-like thingy that has a threaded hole. It is
> captivated by dimples, so it won't go anywhere, but it can move around when
> the bolt is removed. You can easily line up the nutplate with a screw driver
> then insert the nut and get it started.
>
> I suggest you loosen all of the bolts BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Then, use a
> HiLift jack, or a floor jack and a suitable extension device to gently lift
> one side, left or right, then remove the bolts on the side you have started
> to lift. Raise the side yo are woriking on just enough to get the old
> bushings out and the new ones in. Put the bolts back in, leaving them loose,
> and move around to the other side and repeat. Once all of the bushings are
> in place, tighten all bolts. You do not need to lift the vehicle off the
> ground, but you do need to raise the body off of the chassis. Obviously, a
> smart guy would put a block between the body and the frame to prevent the
> fingers from being smashed should the tub fall off of the lifting device.
>
> The driver's side requires special attention because if you raise it too
> high, you can disconnect brake lines and or the clutch line. If you take
> care and watch what you are doing, you can avoid a mistake that causes extra
> work. All that is needed is a guy to watch what is happening while another
> guy GENTLY lifts the tub.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:bdab55d6.0410270722.7a7adedd@posting.google.c om...
> > My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.
> >
> > I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
> > all turn.
> > The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
> > whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
> > screwdriver and get the bolt back in.
> >
> >
> > I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
> > new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
> > to get at it?

Re: 1" body lift question
 

Thanks for the info Jeff!

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<10nvjov1ttbord6@corp.supernews.com>...
> The "nut" is really a flat plate-like thingy that has a threaded hole. It is
> captivated by dimples, so it won't go anywhere, but it can move around when
> the bolt is removed. You can easily line up the nutplate with a screw driver
> then insert the nut and get it started.
>
> I suggest you loosen all of the bolts BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Then, use a
> HiLift jack, or a floor jack and a suitable extension device to gently lift
> one side, left or right, then remove the bolts on the side you have started
> to lift. Raise the side yo are woriking on just enough to get the old
> bushings out and the new ones in. Put the bolts back in, leaving them loose,
> and move around to the other side and repeat. Once all of the bushings are
> in place, tighten all bolts. You do not need to lift the vehicle off the
> ground, but you do need to raise the body off of the chassis. Obviously, a
> smart guy would put a block between the body and the frame to prevent the
> fingers from being smashed should the tub fall off of the lifting device.
>
> The driver's side requires special attention because if you raise it too
> high, you can disconnect brake lines and or the clutch line. If you take
> care and watch what you are doing, you can avoid a mistake that causes extra
> work. All that is needed is a guy to watch what is happening while another
> guy GENTLY lifts the tub.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:bdab55d6.0410270722.7a7adedd@posting.google.c om...
> > My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.
> >
> > I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
> > all turn.
> > The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
> > whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
> > screwdriver and get the bolt back in.
> >
> >
> > I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
> > new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
> > to get at it?

Re: 1" body lift question
 

PMFBI, but I did this last year on my '94 and it turned into a bit of a
PITA.

I installed the M.O.R.E. 1" kit, that didn't come with new insulators, etc.,
just the aluminum pucks and bolts. 1) despite having been soaked with PB
Blaster for days, the left rear bolt snapped off at the captive nut, 2) the
middle right bolt came out with the threads.

In the case of the former I simply punched out the captive nut (it's on a 1"
square plate, which I just pushed up out of the way and sealed in place with
urethane sealer), cut a 1" hole with a hole-saw and installed a nut on the
bolt. Sealed the hole with a 1" plastic plug. I installed a helicoil on the
right middle bolt. Both have held up fine.

As for all the mounting sleeves, etc., the factory rubber insulators were
like new, but the metal sleeves & washers were in really bad shape. Odd,
since the's no rust on this Jeep anywhere. Anyway, I ordered new factory
hardware and replaced them all, but it meant I had to essentially do the job
twice.

As Jeff noted, it's important not to lift the body too far, but ther's
plenty of slack in the hoses, brake lines, etc. for a 1" lift.

I ended up having to loosen the steering shaft at the u-joint on the
steering box to remove a bit of tension that was causing some binding inside
the sterring column. It only needed to move about 1/4" to free it up, but I
was surprised the slip joint on the sterring shaft didn't give a bit, even
after heating it and gently tapping on it with a plastic hammer.

Also, rather than drop the radiator shroud, I instralled 1" taller motor
mounts from M.O.R.E. Helped line my driveline up a bit better and they're
tougher to boot.

Final result, I got just the right amount of extra tub clearance and so far
the kit has held up to Moab and the Rubicon with no issues. Good luck!

"Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdab55d6.0410271529.3459b9e0@posting.google.c om...
> Thanks for the info Jeff!
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:<10nvjov1ttbord6@corp.supernews.com>...
>> The "nut" is really a flat plate-like thingy that has a threaded hole. It
>> is
>> captivated by dimples, so it won't go anywhere, but it can move around
>> when
>> the bolt is removed. You can easily line up the nutplate with a screw
>> driver
>> then insert the nut and get it started.
>>
>> I suggest you loosen all of the bolts BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Then, use a
>> HiLift jack, or a floor jack and a suitable extension device to gently
>> lift
>> one side, left or right, then remove the bolts on the side you have
>> started
>> to lift. Raise the side yo are woriking on just enough to get the old
>> bushings out and the new ones in. Put the bolts back in, leaving them
>> loose,
>> and move around to the other side and repeat. Once all of the bushings
>> are
>> in place, tighten all bolts. You do not need to lift the vehicle off the
>> ground, but you do need to raise the body off of the chassis. Obviously,
>> a
>> smart guy would put a block between the body and the frame to prevent the
>> fingers from being smashed should the tub fall off of the lifting device.
>>
>> The driver's side requires special attention because if you raise it too
>> high, you can disconnect brake lines and or the clutch line. If you take
>> care and watch what you are doing, you can avoid a mistake that causes
>> extra
>> work. All that is needed is a guy to watch what is happening while
>> another
>> guy GENTLY lifts the tub.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:bdab55d6.0410270722.7a7adedd@posting.google.c om...
>> > My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.
>> >
>> > I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
>> > all turn.
>> > The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
>> > whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
>> > screwdriver and get the bolt back in.
>> >
>> >
>> > I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
>> > new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
>> > to get at it?

Re: 1" body lift question
 

PMFBI, but I did this last year on my '94 and it turned into a bit of a
PITA.

I installed the M.O.R.E. 1" kit, that didn't come with new insulators, etc.,
just the aluminum pucks and bolts. 1) despite having been soaked with PB
Blaster for days, the left rear bolt snapped off at the captive nut, 2) the
middle right bolt came out with the threads.

In the case of the former I simply punched out the captive nut (it's on a 1"
square plate, which I just pushed up out of the way and sealed in place with
urethane sealer), cut a 1" hole with a hole-saw and installed a nut on the
bolt. Sealed the hole with a 1" plastic plug. I installed a helicoil on the
right middle bolt. Both have held up fine.

As for all the mounting sleeves, etc., the factory rubber insulators were
like new, but the metal sleeves & washers were in really bad shape. Odd,
since the's no rust on this Jeep anywhere. Anyway, I ordered new factory
hardware and replaced them all, but it meant I had to essentially do the job
twice.

As Jeff noted, it's important not to lift the body too far, but ther's
plenty of slack in the hoses, brake lines, etc. for a 1" lift.

I ended up having to loosen the steering shaft at the u-joint on the
steering box to remove a bit of tension that was causing some binding inside
the sterring column. It only needed to move about 1/4" to free it up, but I
was surprised the slip joint on the sterring shaft didn't give a bit, even
after heating it and gently tapping on it with a plastic hammer.

Also, rather than drop the radiator shroud, I instralled 1" taller motor
mounts from M.O.R.E. Helped line my driveline up a bit better and they're
tougher to boot.

Final result, I got just the right amount of extra tub clearance and so far
the kit has held up to Moab and the Rubicon with no issues. Good luck!

"Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdab55d6.0410271529.3459b9e0@posting.google.c om...
> Thanks for the info Jeff!
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:<10nvjov1ttbord6@corp.supernews.com>...
>> The "nut" is really a flat plate-like thingy that has a threaded hole. It
>> is
>> captivated by dimples, so it won't go anywhere, but it can move around
>> when
>> the bolt is removed. You can easily line up the nutplate with a screw
>> driver
>> then insert the nut and get it started.
>>
>> I suggest you loosen all of the bolts BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Then, use a
>> HiLift jack, or a floor jack and a suitable extension device to gently
>> lift
>> one side, left or right, then remove the bolts on the side you have
>> started
>> to lift. Raise the side yo are woriking on just enough to get the old
>> bushings out and the new ones in. Put the bolts back in, leaving them
>> loose,
>> and move around to the other side and repeat. Once all of the bushings
>> are
>> in place, tighten all bolts. You do not need to lift the vehicle off the
>> ground, but you do need to raise the body off of the chassis. Obviously,
>> a
>> smart guy would put a block between the body and the frame to prevent the
>> fingers from being smashed should the tub fall off of the lifting device.
>>
>> The driver's side requires special attention because if you raise it too
>> high, you can disconnect brake lines and or the clutch line. If you take
>> care and watch what you are doing, you can avoid a mistake that causes
>> extra
>> work. All that is needed is a guy to watch what is happening while
>> another
>> guy GENTLY lifts the tub.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:bdab55d6.0410270722.7a7adedd@posting.google.c om...
>> > My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.
>> >
>> > I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
>> > all turn.
>> > The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
>> > whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
>> > screwdriver and get the bolt back in.
>> >
>> >
>> > I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
>> > new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
>> > to get at it?

Re: 1" body lift question
 

PMFBI, but I did this last year on my '94 and it turned into a bit of a
PITA.

I installed the M.O.R.E. 1" kit, that didn't come with new insulators, etc.,
just the aluminum pucks and bolts. 1) despite having been soaked with PB
Blaster for days, the left rear bolt snapped off at the captive nut, 2) the
middle right bolt came out with the threads.

In the case of the former I simply punched out the captive nut (it's on a 1"
square plate, which I just pushed up out of the way and sealed in place with
urethane sealer), cut a 1" hole with a hole-saw and installed a nut on the
bolt. Sealed the hole with a 1" plastic plug. I installed a helicoil on the
right middle bolt. Both have held up fine.

As for all the mounting sleeves, etc., the factory rubber insulators were
like new, but the metal sleeves & washers were in really bad shape. Odd,
since the's no rust on this Jeep anywhere. Anyway, I ordered new factory
hardware and replaced them all, but it meant I had to essentially do the job
twice.

As Jeff noted, it's important not to lift the body too far, but ther's
plenty of slack in the hoses, brake lines, etc. for a 1" lift.

I ended up having to loosen the steering shaft at the u-joint on the
steering box to remove a bit of tension that was causing some binding inside
the sterring column. It only needed to move about 1/4" to free it up, but I
was surprised the slip joint on the sterring shaft didn't give a bit, even
after heating it and gently tapping on it with a plastic hammer.

Also, rather than drop the radiator shroud, I instralled 1" taller motor
mounts from M.O.R.E. Helped line my driveline up a bit better and they're
tougher to boot.

Final result, I got just the right amount of extra tub clearance and so far
the kit has held up to Moab and the Rubicon with no issues. Good luck!

"Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdab55d6.0410271529.3459b9e0@posting.google.c om...
> Thanks for the info Jeff!
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:<10nvjov1ttbord6@corp.supernews.com>...
>> The "nut" is really a flat plate-like thingy that has a threaded hole. It
>> is
>> captivated by dimples, so it won't go anywhere, but it can move around
>> when
>> the bolt is removed. You can easily line up the nutplate with a screw
>> driver
>> then insert the nut and get it started.
>>
>> I suggest you loosen all of the bolts BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Then, use a
>> HiLift jack, or a floor jack and a suitable extension device to gently
>> lift
>> one side, left or right, then remove the bolts on the side you have
>> started
>> to lift. Raise the side yo are woriking on just enough to get the old
>> bushings out and the new ones in. Put the bolts back in, leaving them
>> loose,
>> and move around to the other side and repeat. Once all of the bushings
>> are
>> in place, tighten all bolts. You do not need to lift the vehicle off the
>> ground, but you do need to raise the body off of the chassis. Obviously,
>> a
>> smart guy would put a block between the body and the frame to prevent the
>> fingers from being smashed should the tub fall off of the lifting device.
>>
>> The driver's side requires special attention because if you raise it too
>> high, you can disconnect brake lines and or the clutch line. If you take
>> care and watch what you are doing, you can avoid a mistake that causes
>> extra
>> work. All that is needed is a guy to watch what is happening while
>> another
>> guy GENTLY lifts the tub.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Ufatbasted" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:bdab55d6.0410270722.7a7adedd@posting.google.c om...
>> > My next project on my YJ is a 1" body lift. I bought the daystar lift.
>> >
>> > I was testing the mounting bolts to see if they are frozen and they
>> > all turn.
>> > The passenger rear I got all the way out by accident but the nut or
>> > whatever it bolts into was loose. I was able to move the nut with a
>> > screwdriver and get the bolt back in.
>> >
>> >
>> > I worried that when I install the lift I will not be able to get the
>> > new bolt throught that nut. If thats the case I assume I have to cut
>> > to get at it?