Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but with a
little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll air thru rad. GTK wrote: > billy ray wrote: > > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to try > > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' to > > get everything possible out of the block and heater core. > > > > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? > > > > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use of a > > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing goes > > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain system > > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a > > higher rate. > > > > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, clamps,a > > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing (female > > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose you > > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). > > > > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and chemically > > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in pretty bad > > shape. > > > > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" coolant. > > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the new > > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only supplier > > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. > > > > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most generic > > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are DexCool > > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against its > > use. > > > > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from Valvoline > > Zerex brand in the white jug. > > > > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always > > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and > > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive effect. > > > > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off with the > > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final > > concentration will be. > > > > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it in > > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda (who > > have their own spec) say otherwise. > > > > > > > > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . > >> '98 6-cyl Manual > >> > >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct > >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still > >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced > >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the > >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit > >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last thing > >> I know to do. > > > > > > Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" > or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had > nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products > bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld? |
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
responded about it... Troy "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET... > make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but > with a > little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll > air thru > rad. > > GTK wrote: > >> billy ray wrote: >> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to >> > try >> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' >> > to >> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core. >> > >> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? >> > >> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use >> > of a >> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing >> > goes >> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain >> > system >> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a >> > higher rate. >> > >> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, >> > clamps,a >> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing >> > (female >> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose >> > you >> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). >> > >> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and >> > chemically >> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in >> > pretty bad >> > shape. >> > >> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" >> > coolant. >> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the >> > new >> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only >> > supplier >> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. >> > >> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most >> > generic >> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are >> > DexCool >> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against >> > its >> > use. >> > >> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from >> > Valvoline >> > Zerex brand in the white jug. >> > >> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always >> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and >> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive >> > effect. >> > >> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off >> > with the >> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final >> > concentration will be. >> > >> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it >> > in >> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda >> > (who >> > have their own spec) say otherwise. >> > >> > >> > >> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message >> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . >> >> '98 6-cyl Manual >> >> >> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct >> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still >> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced >> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the >> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit >> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last >> >> thing >> >> I know to do. >> > >> > >> >> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" >> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had >> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products >> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld? > |
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
responded about it... Troy "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET... > make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but > with a > little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll > air thru > rad. > > GTK wrote: > >> billy ray wrote: >> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to >> > try >> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' >> > to >> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core. >> > >> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? >> > >> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use >> > of a >> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing >> > goes >> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain >> > system >> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a >> > higher rate. >> > >> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, >> > clamps,a >> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing >> > (female >> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose >> > you >> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). >> > >> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and >> > chemically >> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in >> > pretty bad >> > shape. >> > >> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" >> > coolant. >> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the >> > new >> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only >> > supplier >> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. >> > >> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most >> > generic >> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are >> > DexCool >> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against >> > its >> > use. >> > >> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from >> > Valvoline >> > Zerex brand in the white jug. >> > >> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always >> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and >> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive >> > effect. >> > >> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off >> > with the >> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final >> > concentration will be. >> > >> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it >> > in >> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda >> > (who >> > have their own spec) say otherwise. >> > >> > >> > >> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message >> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . >> >> '98 6-cyl Manual >> >> >> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct >> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still >> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced >> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the >> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit >> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last >> >> thing >> >> I know to do. >> > >> > >> >> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" >> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had >> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products >> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld? > |
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
responded about it... Troy "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET... > make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but > with a > little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll > air thru > rad. > > GTK wrote: > >> billy ray wrote: >> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to >> > try >> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' >> > to >> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core. >> > >> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? >> > >> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use >> > of a >> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing >> > goes >> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain >> > system >> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a >> > higher rate. >> > >> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, >> > clamps,a >> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing >> > (female >> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose >> > you >> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). >> > >> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and >> > chemically >> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in >> > pretty bad >> > shape. >> > >> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" >> > coolant. >> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the >> > new >> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only >> > supplier >> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. >> > >> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most >> > generic >> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are >> > DexCool >> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against >> > its >> > use. >> > >> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from >> > Valvoline >> > Zerex brand in the white jug. >> > >> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always >> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and >> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive >> > effect. >> > >> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off >> > with the >> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final >> > concentration will be. >> > >> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it >> > in >> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda >> > (who >> > have their own spec) say otherwise. >> > >> > >> > >> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message >> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . >> >> '98 6-cyl Manual >> >> >> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct >> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still >> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced >> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the >> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit >> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last >> >> thing >> >> I know to do. >> > >> > >> >> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" >> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had >> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products >> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld? > |
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't
responded about it... Troy "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET... > make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but > with a > little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll > air thru > rad. > > GTK wrote: > >> billy ray wrote: >> > While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to >> > try >> > using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' >> > to >> > get everything possible out of the block and heater core. >> > >> > Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? >> > >> > The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use >> > of a >> > 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing >> > goes >> > there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain >> > system >> > because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a >> > higher rate. >> > >> > Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, >> > clamps,a >> > radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing >> > (female >> > hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose >> > you >> > can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). >> > >> > You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and >> > chemically >> > cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in >> > pretty bad >> > shape. >> > >> > Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" >> > coolant. >> > DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the >> > new >> > G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only >> > supplier >> > to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. >> > >> > Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most >> > generic >> > brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are >> > DexCool >> > or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against >> > its >> > use. >> > >> > If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from >> > Valvoline >> > Zerex brand in the white jug. >> > >> > Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always >> > residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and >> > concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive >> > effect. >> > >> > The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off >> > with the >> > appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final >> > concentration will be. >> > >> > Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it >> > in >> > ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda >> > (who >> > have their own spec) say otherwise. >> > >> > >> > >> > "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message >> > news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . >> >> '98 6-cyl Manual >> >> >> >> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct >> >> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still >> >> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced >> >> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the >> >> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit >> >> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last >> >> thing >> >> I know to do. >> > >> > >> >> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" >> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had >> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products >> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld? > |
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup,
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too. How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find either reference on a bottle. Troy wrote: > I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't > responded about it... > > Troy > > > "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message > news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET... >> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but >> with a >> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll >> air thru >> rad. >> >> GTK wrote: >> >>> billy ray wrote: >>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to >>>> try >>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' >>>> to >>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core. >>>> >>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? >>>> >>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use >>>> of a >>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing >>>> goes >>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain >>>> system >>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a >>>> higher rate. >>>> >>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, >>>> clamps,a >>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing >>>> (female >>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose >>>> you >>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). >>>> >>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and >>>> chemically >>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in >>>> pretty bad >>>> shape. >>>> >>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" >>>> coolant. >>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the >>>> new >>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only >>>> supplier >>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. >>>> >>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most >>>> generic >>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are >>>> DexCool >>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against >>>> its >>>> use. >>>> >>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from >>>> Valvoline >>>> Zerex brand in the white jug. >>>> >>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always >>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and >>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive >>>> effect. >>>> >>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off >>>> with the >>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final >>>> concentration will be. >>>> >>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it >>>> in >>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda >>>> (who >>>> have their own spec) say otherwise. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . >>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual >>>>> >>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct >>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still >>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced >>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the >>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit >>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last >>>>> thing >>>>> I know to do. >>>> >>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" >>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had >>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products >>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld? > > |
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup,
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too. How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find either reference on a bottle. Troy wrote: > I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't > responded about it... > > Troy > > > "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message > news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET... >> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but >> with a >> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll >> air thru >> rad. >> >> GTK wrote: >> >>> billy ray wrote: >>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to >>>> try >>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' >>>> to >>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core. >>>> >>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? >>>> >>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use >>>> of a >>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing >>>> goes >>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain >>>> system >>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a >>>> higher rate. >>>> >>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, >>>> clamps,a >>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing >>>> (female >>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose >>>> you >>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). >>>> >>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and >>>> chemically >>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in >>>> pretty bad >>>> shape. >>>> >>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" >>>> coolant. >>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the >>>> new >>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only >>>> supplier >>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. >>>> >>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most >>>> generic >>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are >>>> DexCool >>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against >>>> its >>>> use. >>>> >>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from >>>> Valvoline >>>> Zerex brand in the white jug. >>>> >>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always >>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and >>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive >>>> effect. >>>> >>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off >>>> with the >>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final >>>> concentration will be. >>>> >>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it >>>> in >>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda >>>> (who >>>> have their own spec) say otherwise. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . >>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual >>>>> >>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct >>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still >>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced >>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the >>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit >>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last >>>>> thing >>>>> I know to do. >>>> >>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" >>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had >>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products >>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld? > > |
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup,
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too. How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find either reference on a bottle. Troy wrote: > I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't > responded about it... > > Troy > > > "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message > news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET... >> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but >> with a >> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll >> air thru >> rad. >> >> GTK wrote: >> >>> billy ray wrote: >>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to >>>> try >>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' >>>> to >>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core. >>>> >>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? >>>> >>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use >>>> of a >>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing >>>> goes >>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain >>>> system >>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a >>>> higher rate. >>>> >>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, >>>> clamps,a >>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing >>>> (female >>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose >>>> you >>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). >>>> >>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and >>>> chemically >>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in >>>> pretty bad >>>> shape. >>>> >>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" >>>> coolant. >>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the >>>> new >>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only >>>> supplier >>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. >>>> >>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most >>>> generic >>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are >>>> DexCool >>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against >>>> its >>>> use. >>>> >>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from >>>> Valvoline >>>> Zerex brand in the white jug. >>>> >>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always >>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and >>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive >>>> effect. >>>> >>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off >>>> with the >>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final >>>> concentration will be. >>>> >>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it >>>> in >>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda >>>> (who >>>> have their own spec) say otherwise. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . >>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual >>>>> >>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct >>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still >>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced >>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the >>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit >>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last >>>>> thing >>>>> I know to do. >>>> >>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" >>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had >>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products >>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld? > > |
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup,
once engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too. How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find either reference on a bottle. Troy wrote: > I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't > responded about it... > > Troy > > > "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message > news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET... >> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but >> with a >> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll >> air thru >> rad. >> >> GTK wrote: >> >>> billy ray wrote: >>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to >>>> try >>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a 'flush' >>>> to >>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core. >>>> >>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? >>>> >>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the use >>>> of a >>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing >>>> goes >>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain >>>> system >>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a >>>> higher rate. >>>> >>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, >>>> clamps,a >>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing >>>> (female >>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose >>>> you >>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). >>>> >>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and >>>> chemically >>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in >>>> pretty bad >>>> shape. >>>> >>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" >>>> coolant. >>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the >>>> new >>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only >>>> supplier >>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. >>>> >>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most >>>> generic >>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are >>>> DexCool >>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against >>>> its >>>> use. >>>> >>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from >>>> Valvoline >>>> Zerex brand in the white jug. >>>> >>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always >>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and >>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive >>>> effect. >>>> >>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off >>>> with the >>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final >>>> concentration will be. >>>> >>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use it >>>> in >>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda >>>> (who >>>> have their own spec) say otherwise. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . >>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual >>>>> >>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct >>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still >>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. Replaced >>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run the >>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, albeit >>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last >>>>> thing >>>>> I know to do. >>>> >>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" >>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had >>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these products >>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid weld? > > |
Re: `98 TJ Still Overheating
Valvoline clearly labels its Zerex brand coolants in large letters on the
front label and as it is the only supplier of G-05 you most likely haven't got it. Visually it comes in a gold colored jug and is pale yellow in color. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=10 If you want the old style American Green Zerex now calls it Original Formula and it comes in a white jug. If the label says Prestone or Peak it is DexCool or based on DexCool. FWIW: I found Zerex G-05 at PepBoys "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:O%ZBg.2038$Uq1.1870@bignews6.bellsouth.net... > Sorry dude- fan clutch seems fine. Mild resistance at cold startup, once > engine is warm and cut off, fan stops too. > > How does one know if coolant is DexCool or Zerex G-05? Can't seem to find > either reference on a bottle. > > Troy wrote: >> I asked about the fan clutch on that thing like twice already, he hasn't >> responded about it... >> >> Troy >> >> >> "philthy" <"noway "@ seeya.net> wrote in message >> news:bbe20$44d684fd$d8ea6341$7625@123.NET... >>> make sure the clutch fan is working correctly.it should spin by hand but >>> with a >>> little resisistence/ drag if it free spins it's bad and won't help puyll >>> air thru >>> rad. >>> >>> GTK wrote: >>> >>>> billy ray wrote: >>>>> While you are waiting for the new radiator to arrive you may want to >>>>> try >>>>> using a cooling system 'cleaner' which is a bit stronger than a >>>>> 'flush' to >>>>> get everything possible out of the block and heater core. >>>>> >>>>> Did you ever use 'stop-leak'?? >>>>> >>>>> The best way I have found for flushing a cooling system is with the >>>>> use of a >>>>> 'flush-n-fill' kit. It is so much more efficient as far as flushing >>>>> goes >>>>> there is really no comparison with the old style 'drain-fill-drain >>>>> system >>>>> because it allows you to force water backwards to its normal flow at a >>>>> higher rate. >>>>> >>>>> Prestone (and others) make a complete kit with a selection of tees, >>>>> clamps,a >>>>> radiator spout, and a doglegged .... ahhh.... connect-o-matic thing >>>>> (female >>>>> hose connectors on each end) If you have an old washing machine hose >>>>> you >>>>> can just buy the tee (99 cents) and a couple clamps (99 cents). >>>>> >>>>> You might have been able to have the old one 'rodded out' and >>>>> chemically >>>>> cleaned at a radiator shop but it sounds like your old one was in >>>>> pretty bad >>>>> shape. >>>>> >>>>> Your Jeep came from the factory with the old style "American Green" >>>>> coolant. >>>>> DC says you can still use this but they prefer that you upgrade to the >>>>> new >>>>> G-05 spec which has superior anti-corrosive properties. The only >>>>> supplier >>>>> to the aftermarket is Valvoline's Zerex G-05 brand in the gold jug. >>>>> >>>>> Also please be aware that NOTHING made by Prestone or Peak (or most >>>>> generic >>>>> brands) meets either the new or old spec as all their products are >>>>> DexCool >>>>> or based on DexCool technology and DC specifically warns you against >>>>> its >>>>> use. >>>>> >>>>> If you want to stay with "American Green' it is available from >>>>> Valvoline >>>>> Zerex brand in the white jug. >>>>> >>>>> Finally I recommend that 50/50 premix never be used as there is always >>>>> residual water in the block and 50% + 0% i always less than 50% and >>>>> concentrations of less than 44% have no appreciable anti-corrosive >>>>> effect. >>>>> >>>>> The best procedure is to add the concentrate first and then top off >>>>> with the >>>>> appropriate amount of DISTILLED water, that way you know the final >>>>> concentration will be. >>>>> >>>>> Note: I am aware that Prestone claims on its label that you can use >>>>> it in >>>>> ANY vehicle. DC, Ford, Mercedes (who all use G-05), Toyota, and Honda >>>>> (who >>>>> have their own spec) say otherwise. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> "GTK" <gkucera@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:NclBg.18018$Z7.10009@bignews3.bellsouth.net.. . >>>>>> '98 6-cyl Manual >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks for all the posts. I've replaced the water pump (with correct >>>>>> rotation), thermostat (195 F), and radiator cap (18 psi). Still >>>>>> overheating. So I flushed the radiator per mfg. directions. >>>>>> Replaced >>>>>> coolant with Preston 50/50. STILL OVERHEATING. However, if I run >>>>>> the >>>>>> heating at full blast I can keep the gauge out of the RED zone, >>>>>> albeit >>>>>> still hot. I just ordered a new radiator for $165. Thats the last >>>>>> thing >>>>>> I know to do. >>>>> >>>> Great info- Thanks! In fact, I did use "stop-a-leak" or "liquid weld" >>>> or some other brand last week during my first drain and fill. This had >>>> nothing to do with the original overheating problem. Are these >>>> products >>>> bad for an engine? Would the flushing I did remove all the liquid >>>> weld? >> |
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