Adjust the idle?
I'm not sure if it's just a coincidence, but since the cooler weather has arrived, my 86 CJ is stalling quite a bit when I first start her up. I warmed it up for almost 15 minutes today and as soon as I put it in drive(yes, it's an automatic) it stalled. Did this 3 times. This has happened a few times, but today was by far the worse.
I'm a bit of a rookie at this but I am thinking I need to adjust the idle or maybe the choke...
Any suggestions?
I'm a bit of a rookie at this but I am thinking I need to adjust the idle or maybe the choke...
Any suggestions?
I would also suggest making sure all the choke and components on the side of the carburater are not gunked up and stiff. Maybe a little carb cleaner and some dry lub to make sure it works all nice and free. If you take off the air cleaner and manually operate the throttle linkage (engine off) the choke plate should close . When you start the engine the plate should open about an 1/8 of an inch and gradually open as engine warms up. Hope this helps.
Morning,
JG 35. ddterry's advice is right on the money regarding having the linkages and levers free from gunk and properly lubricated. Having grown up with carbs and automatic chokes I would say they work well when everything is up to specifications. BUT there are so many interrelated mechanisms it CAN be a PI the A to get everything just right.
The way auto chokes work is there is a bi-metal strip (BMS) (spring) on the outside of the choke butterfly valve shaft that is heated by an electrical element (12V). When you cold start, you put the skinny pedal to the floor and the BMS causes the choke butterfly to close. When the engine starts, the heating elelment slowly starts to heat the BMS until it exerts no pressure on the butterfly thus alllowing it to open. Through a series of levers, when the butterfly is closed, high idle occurs via a stepped cam on the side of the butterfly valve shaft.
Canadian Tire used to sell a kit to convert your auto choke to manual. Don't know if it's still available and I'm not necessarily suggesting you change over but the option MAY be there.
After making sure all your linkages are freed-up, put a voltmeter on the wire going to the heating elelment and check if there is 12V.
Complicated? Sorry if my description is confusing but this old brain doesn't "high idle" much any more.
Peter.
JG 35. ddterry's advice is right on the money regarding having the linkages and levers free from gunk and properly lubricated. Having grown up with carbs and automatic chokes I would say they work well when everything is up to specifications. BUT there are so many interrelated mechanisms it CAN be a PI the A to get everything just right.
The way auto chokes work is there is a bi-metal strip (BMS) (spring) on the outside of the choke butterfly valve shaft that is heated by an electrical element (12V). When you cold start, you put the skinny pedal to the floor and the BMS causes the choke butterfly to close. When the engine starts, the heating elelment slowly starts to heat the BMS until it exerts no pressure on the butterfly thus alllowing it to open. Through a series of levers, when the butterfly is closed, high idle occurs via a stepped cam on the side of the butterfly valve shaft.
Canadian Tire used to sell a kit to convert your auto choke to manual. Don't know if it's still available and I'm not necessarily suggesting you change over but the option MAY be there.
After making sure all your linkages are freed-up, put a voltmeter on the wire going to the heating elelment and check if there is 12V.
Complicated? Sorry if my description is confusing but this old brain doesn't "high idle" much any more.
Peter.
I'm not sure if it's just a coincidence, but since the cooler weather has arrived.
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D McMorris
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Aug 14, 2003 12:35 AM
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